What Would An Ideal Tea Day Actually Look Like For You? What About An Ideal Tea Day For A Regular, Routine Day?
For my first decade of tea drinking this is a question I never really asked myself. I suspect I’m not the only one. An ideal tea day does not mean narrowing it down to a hyper-specific tea, but more about the context and types of teas. What time would you drink tea? Would you enjoy Yancha, Yiwu?? Maybe a rotation between a few different types of tea? How many teas? Do you enjoy drinking with tea friend A or tea friend B? How much time do you need to have a satisfying session?
Two followup questions. How often do you achieve an ideal tea day? What is preventing you from having more days like this?
An ideal tea day is something that can’t happen everyday for most folks due to life constraints. Work, kids, school, etc. Most of us have a fairly regular and routine schedule… Now, on an average day, ask the same question. Under the constraint of an ordinary day, what would the ideal tea day look like?
The Goal:
The goal is to pursue both your ideal tea day and teas so you can appreciate and enjoy tea more! By defining this clearly, we can strive for it more frequently.
For Myself:
My ideal tea day is having a leisurely 1.5-2 hour morning or early afternoon session with a good tea friend. My best and most memorable sessions are rarely alone, but in the company of someone else. We would share 3-4 great teas we both enjoy. Ideal tea types: pu’erh with age, Yancha, and aged tea. A good quantity to savor and enjoy, but not too many to overwhelm the experience. Teas I would not drink: younger pu’erh, Taiwanese oolong, Dancong, most Heicha, green tea.
The more routine ideal is to have two excellent quality teas in one day and then go on a run afterwards. The teas should be distinct from one another. For instance, one fairly active pu’erh around 20 years old followed by an aged tea or Yancha. An example: 2004 BYH Manzhuan, followed by some old Liubao.
Determining the ideal tea day is not particularly relevant for newer drinkers. The exploratory phase is something that plays out largely on its own and takes everyone in different directions.. Mostly you don’t want to over accumulate tuition during this period (samples are your best friend). But I think if you’ve been drinking tea regularly for a few years and have an idea of where your tastes lie you should try to move towards our ideals.
What Would An Ideal Month or Year Look Like?
This is a deceptively different question than an ideal tea day. Looking at a full month or year time frame, gives a different perspective than what you’d like to drink today or tomorrow. That level of distance and long term thinking is also good for preventing tempting impulse purchases that may not fit your vision. Having a zoomed out point of view also allows you to sample and dabble with a bit more purpose. Perhaps this month or year you want to explore Liubao. As much as we love to build a fantasy cart made up with teas we have the slightest interest in, you can go a lot deeper if you eliminate the clutter and focus, sample, and drink in a purposeful manner.
For Myself: Do 2-4 wide samplings (10+ reps) to get a feel for a tea maker or a tea type, i.e. Liubao. More routinely having a regular rotation of teas, 15-20+ year old pu’erh, Wuyi, Aged Oolongs.
I still enjoy sampling around and try different things on occasion. It remains fun to shop for tea that I enjoy. I continue to get a fair bit of edification by doing themed tastings and explorations. 10 years ago, I sampled too hard at different points so I know there is a limit to this for myself but there’s still enough variety out there in pu’erh and all tea types to enjoy the learning process. One difference between now and a decade ago is I’m much faster to move on from a session or sample if it isn’t working for me.
Managing Finite Resources. Did You Buy Too Much? Or Did You Spend Too Much?
As an RTS (Real Time Strategy) enjoyer, one of the biggest in-game mistakes you can make is floating too much of one resource. In the Age of Empire Series (I currently play AOE4) you have four resources, Food, Wood, Gold, and Stone. At a certain level of play if you are floating too much of one of them you’re probably dead. Why? You might be rich, but because you have mismanaged your economy you won’t have as much to invest into units. Tea is obviously different, but in the same way you can definitely over commit in certain areas.
Did you buy too much tea? Or did you spend too much money? These are different questions that don’t always overlap. Someone who spent too much money, means they likely don’t have enough for other things outside of tea..
Someone who bought too much tea has a different problem. Both are a resource allocation problem but should be thought of differently. The good news: if you misallocate too much into tea quantity it’s not like an RTS game where you’ll be dead in a couple minutes..
The two most important things someone who bought too much tea can do:
Give away or sell teas you value less.
Focus on teas that are of superior quality.
I have fallen into the “bought too much” camp more often than the former. I probably spent too much in my first couple years of tea hobbyism. But once my job and income stabilized I was buying too much quantity rather than spending irresponsibly.
By my own calculations I technically do not have a lifetime of tea, I would be able to brew and drink prolifically for around 30 years without buying anymore. Given my healthy stash of tea, one of the largest mistakes I can make now is to buy loads of value-oriented say $0.07/g tea. Another of my focuses in the past two years has been on giving away teas. Tea is better consumed by someone who enjoys it, rather than a tea hoarder padding his stash. I’ve opted to give away, and have given away at least 10kg in the last couple years. If a cake is indeed a sample, you should do the same thing you’d do to a dud sample you’re no longer interested in drinking. Get rid of it.. I fortunately do not need the money and can be thankfully picky about the tea I keep. So in the end I’m happy to give it away. After all, I overbought in quantity not in $$!
I don’t buy as often as I once did, but when I do make a purchase, I try to not buy on price performance or over focus on value as much as I once did. Obviously price and cost are always a part of the equation, but I am buying up a bracket from what I did when I accumulated most of my tea and trying to look at sheer quality and enjoyment. We do not drink dollars..
How Do We Know Tea Is Expensive?
Many people spend and judge price sheerly by feel. When something is too expensive, it’s often more of a feeling and not by an objective measure. Expensive also almost always means relative. $500 feels like a lot compared to $100, so therefore it is expensive. If you scroll back into the annals of pu’erh discourse you’ll find the days where people complained about $35 young cakes. This seems obvious in 2025, but they weren’t complaining because the cake was expensive in absolute terms. They were complaining because $35 was more than other pu’erh being sold at the time and they could not see what future pu’erh tea prices would be. It’s important to be aware of this psychology we use when judging prices.
I’ve long advocated for $/g metrics and I continue to hold to that. This is simply smart math and helps to standardize any purchasing calculations. Standardizing $/g is one thing, but there is also adjusting tea expenses to life circumstances. Tea fanatics range in life stages and can have hugely variable levels of income. It does not make much sense for an unmarried 30 year old working in tech in the Bay Area making $600,000 vs. a college student with no income to abide by the same budgeting rules.
So how much to spend on tea? For people who have an income, I would suggest using a % of income as a baseline. Perhaps it could all fit into some sort of bucket for all discretionary spending or hobby spending or perhaps it’s a tea budget line all on its own. This gets into somewhat uncomfortable territory as it is taboo to talk too openly about one’s own financial situation in most social situations. It also can feel like you’re spending too much if you are framing it this way. This is a psychological barrier and I think having a healthy and honest view on spending money on something we enjoy is ultimately a good thing. I also believe spending in proportion to income makes sense, when compared with spending by feel. It would be prudent to be frugal during tougher times when income is lower. Likewise when things are going well it is OK to spend more.
One obvious caveat is that the actual % set can and should vary. After all two people can make the same amount of money in the same city and one can live comfortably while the other drowns in housing costs and credit card debt. It is probably unwise for someone paying high interest credit card debt to spend a lot on tea. Whereas the one with a fully funded retirement account can probably afford to allocate a higher %. Judge what is expensive or not based off of real numbers not just a feeling.
A Couple Quick Calculations
At what rate are you buying vs. consuming tea? This is pretty simple to figure out. It’s easy enough to calculate out how much quantity and how much $ you’ve sent within a specific timeframe. It might be painful to tabulate, but it is better to live honestly than with purposeful self-delusion.
Calculate:
Quantify Amount Purchased
Quantify Amount Consumed
Quantify $ Amount Spent
Quantify $ Amount Consumed
At what rate are you drinking tea vs. consuming it? This is helpful as a way to measure how quickly you are accumulating. A lot of people humor the idea they will have a short burst of buying a lifetime of tea perfectly suited for them and retire into their idyllic wood cabin with beautifully designed, aesthetically pleasing pu’erh storage. It is true that once people have a lot of tea they do tend to slow down. And perhaps some people have that sort of self control but it is far more frequently fantasy than reality. It’s important to be realistic about our human impulses and not rationalize extremely rapid acquisition under the false idea you’ll stop on a dime.
One calculation I suggest is calculating the $ amount consumed. It is entirely possible to consume several times beneath what you are buying. It essentially means you are drinking your cheaper teas at a decent pace but saving your nicer teas. I know because this describes my own habits for years. I would manage to save up and justify pricier purchases, that I would hardly touch. Part of this was the premise that the tea was not at its peak. Part of it was simply good old fashioned hoarding. You could argue this means the teas don’t pass the speed test. But the only reason they don’t pass my speed test is because I deemed them too expensive to enjoy.. Drink and enjoy stuff you like when you can. Now as someone with a young child, I generally try to get a good session whenever I can and the conditions are good enough, not when the stars are perfectly aligned!
Remember.. For a lot of your favorite tea, you are amongst the most ideal people to enjoy it. You bought it for a reason. It can be OK to wait for the perfect opportunity to share tea, but sometimes a good but not perfect time to enjoy a tea is all you need.
Tea Drinker A:
20 Cakes Purchased Annually (7,140 grams)
10 Grams a day consumed (3,650 grams)
2:1 Weight Purchasing to Consumed Ratio
$2,400 Spent Annually ($200/month)
$65 Consumed Monthly
~3:1 $ Purchasing to Consumed Ratio
Opportunities for Quality Sessions (OQS)
Life dictates how we drink tea. Tea is a caffeinated beverage and different people react in varied ways. I have a friend that strongly prefers to be done drinking before mid-morning or his sleep gets messed up. Others can tolerate evening tea sessions without losing much sleep. Some people can also drink multiple teas easily, whereas others are strictly one per day. Opportunities for Quality Sessions (OQS) is essentially how many chances you get to have a good session.
I am fortunate to have a high OQS in my current life. Quality sessions are doable for me on most workdays, where the nature of my work allows me an objectively good schedule to enjoy tea. I tend to have time for morning tea sessions where the caffeine is least likely to impact my sleep.
Having a low OQS unfortunately means less chances to really enjoy and savor tea. It does however have some positives. For instance if you can only have good sessions on the weekend you could just load up on daily drinkers for the work week and bring out the $1k cakes for Saturday, Sunday. If I could only drink tea intently once per week my buying would and should look different (bring on the $3/g cakes!).
You Don’t Have To Feel Bad About Spending Money On Tea
One thing you’ll notice when money gets brought up in tea circles (reddit or discord) is a shared sense of shame for how much they’ve spent. I think this is mostly because it isn’t normal to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on tea leaves. While this is true, most of it is based on societal expectations. For instance, far more people spend irresponsibly on another vehicle than tea, something that is more or less accepted as normal. I don’t think people who spend a good amount on tea need to feel bad about it, provided they are doing so responsibly.
It is very easy to gawk at someone who spends an outrageous $2/g for a $12 session as an unwise use of money. But that $12 might be the highlight of their day or week and something they looked forward to before the session, enjoyed in the moment, and savored afterwards.. If that’s the case, $12 is an absolute bargain. It is a good thing when people spend money on hobbies they personally value and enjoy. Especially when the alternative is self-enforced tea poverty. Spending as little money as possible is not a good or inspiring goal and we shouldn’t besmirch someone who responsibly spends a few thousand on tea in a year, in the same way we shouldn’t talk down on someone who does their best with a more modest $100/annual budget.
How we feel is often uncorrelated to reality. Take a step back. Are you actually spending too much?? Or does it simply feel like you are spending too much?
Don’t Sell Your Self Short
I realized I was drinking lesser tea than I needed to. Things like that BYH Manzhuan I enjoy had lingered in deep storage only coming out on rare occasions.. Sure even if I believe they’re not at the peak of their potential, but I like drinking them in their current state and I have enough that I should have some around later. Why should I only drink that tea five times in five years?
Would you rather have your eccentric uncle’s antique coin collection or cold hard cash. Unless you share very similar interests as your uncle, 99.9% of people would likely take the money. In the case of inheritance, money beats esoteric interests. The same is true of tea. We are the eccentric uncle. And unless you are in a tea aficionado family your loved ones do not want your tea and will not enjoy it a fraction as much as you do. Even if I inherited another pu’erh fan’s tea, their taste and choice in tea would likely be different than mine. Passing on jians of tea to the next generation isn’t something that should be a goal in most cases.
Setting Matters. Activities to Do With Tea
Confession time… I find it suboptimal if I sit with the tea alone. I often get bored and the cycle inevitably ends with me scrolling on my phone or some other inane activity. My solution? I like watching films while drinking tea. Ideally I’d be able to share the tea with someone else, but that’s just not the reality most of the times. Sometimes the best setting given the options isn’t always a high-minded lofty one. Yes, I know it isn’t very zen or meditative or whatever… Sorry. I am who I am..
For others, the context would no doubt be different. Setting the right scene and mood matters. I know many folks love nature sessions. As a nature-agnostic who has bad allergies, being surrounded by trees isn’t my preference, but I can understand and respect why others love it. The same goes for teaware. It’s not always about a mathematical calculation to extract the best cup. Sometimes drinking tea in nice things we enjoy enhances the enjoyment even if the chemical compounds of the cup are held constant.
In the travel-sphere, they say you experience a trip three different times. Firstly in anticipation and planning of the upcoming trip, second during the actual experience of the trip, and finally through savoring the experience and enjoying the memories after the trip happened.
I’ve started scheduling my sessions, kind of like meal planning. Sometimes plans change, but I rarely arrive at the tea table and think about what I’m going to drink. I’ve already decided a few days before. Like the travel example I derive a similar level of enjoyment where I look forward to the sessions and savor them afterwards. Scheduling sessions also forces me to make sure to plug in nicer teas at least once a week that I can look forward to.
How Much To Buy? A Math Problem. How Far Does 4 Cakes vs. 2 Tongs Get You?
It’s important to tackle this question once your tastes settle and you have a good idea of what will and won’t pass the speed test. There’s a certain danger with overplanning and outlining an idyllic tea life before you’ve had enough experience to even figure out what you like or want. But once someone figures out what they like…
In trying to determine how many cakes or tongs to buy of teas we like, I think these easily start to feel too complicated and potentially overwhelming.. We can reduce the purchasing to a simple math equation. For the calculation:
Approximately how long you will be drinking tea or that specific tea. For some teas maybe drinking it until the end of your life doesn’t make sense.
When do you approximate the tea will be at a state for you to drink and enjoy?
How often do you want to drink the tea?
How big are your sessions?
If you talk to old veterans of tea some of their hammers are very heavy. Splitting jians two ways, several tongs of tea. In my opinion, this is due to a few factors. (1) High quality pu’erh wasn’t always as expensive as it is now and (2) they were younger with time to drink these teas (3) the price is often quite a bit less if you can buy in higher quantity.
For Myself:
I estimate ~40 years more of tea drinking or until I’m around 80. (Like retirement planning, slowly aging tea forces you to reckon with your own mortality.)
If I bought 4 cakes of a tea and I wanted to enjoy it regularly for the 4 next decades, I’d be able to drink it 6 times per year (5 gram session + 20% cake dust/weight loss) or every other month for four decades. If I bought a tong + 1, I’d be able to drink it once per month for that same timespan.
Think Long Term. Why Younger People Should Consider Hitting Harder. A Tong Isn’t Always Enough
Looking ultra long term like this hopefully doesn’t discourage you from drinking your tea (you can always buy more), but it should encourage long term planning. I was puzzled at first to hear how much experienced people bought when they like a particular tea (wait, how many tongs do you have?). But now I do get it and in some cases do my best to replicate that behavior. A tong might seem like a lot, but if we are talking about a lifetime it is not that much. When you like a tea and want to be drinking it regularly for the rest of your lifetime you don’t just buy two cakes or five tuos. You buy two or three tongs.
It is true that most people tend to buy more than they consume, but the more haphazard buying often results in an odd assortment of slightly consumed cakes. Buying like this lacks focus and vision. Usually what is left are the worst teas that don’t pass the speed test, with the best stuff long gone. Would you rather have a random assortment of teas, or smaller variety but higher quantity of teas you love and can enjoy more freely.
Teas that won’t be ready for a while, you probably don’t need to hit as hard. There’s a few cakes that I’ve become convinced won’t be ready for at least 20 years in my unfortunately slow storage. Since I will only start drinking those in 10-20 years, I probably don’t need several tongs of these.
Younger folks whose taste have gotten somewhat settled, frequently don’t hit hard enough. They simply have more time, to both age and drink tea. If you have the resources, hitting hard makes the most sense for younger people. If you are crafting an investment portfolio, someone like my mid 70s year old Dad acts and invests in a different, more conservative matter than myself. Neither of us are wrong. Our situations are simply different.
If you are a young person who has been drinking for a few years and you run into a tea you like a lot and want to drink you should buy much more than two cakes. You don’t have to be impulsive.. Sleep on the decision and take a breather but when you run into a tea you love, it is very unlikely it will be around forever. Your old version will thank you later.
As usual with these reports, even the most massive ones, there were a lot of late arrivals that didn’t meet my publish date. Having exhausted pretty much every thought I’ve had on Xiaguan in the past report I wasn’t quite sure what to do with a few of the late arriving Xiaguans. But I wanted to do something for these teas, so here’s a small addendum with notes.
Being burnt out of Xiaguan didn’t really have a desire to pad it with cheaper tea so these tend to be better Xiaguans. Thanks to Phobos for sending a handful of blind samples.
Starting… I hit my benchmark, the 2005 XG T8653 from MX, and went back to the Xiaguan mines for some more friendly crane sparring.
1998 Xiaguan 8653 (7.5) via SF
Thankfully not overstored like SF’s unfortunate and disappointing 1999 or 2005 T8653. The tea is softish, woody. The tea is nice enough but disappointing in the hunt for densely packed strong Xiaguan tea. It is not nearly as dense as something like the 2001 Xiaguan Heifei. As the tea brews out it does improve a bit. Some salivation and not too drying. No menthol.
The tea itself is a bit sour and I do wonder if this would benefit from more conditioning. It’ll be an interesting reference to have around.
Revisiting the tea and hitting it a bit harder it is quite a bit better. It has more or less the same profile but seems more appropriately dense. The longevity falls off a cliff quickly after about steep 7, but it is enjoyable before that point.
After Alex’s post on fake XG, I’ve been a bit more paranoid about the legitimacy of some of these teas but it does seem like most people think SF is legitimate.
1999 Xiaguan Jiaji (7.4) via SF
Consumed blind from Phobos. Very woody. Good mouthfeel and mouthcoat. It dies relatively quickly but has good depth. Does not have that menthol/pine wood, so I assumed this was not a T8653. Was somewhat surprised to see it be a Jiaji. Definitely a pretty good version compared with some others I’ve had.
2000 Xiaguan Hongyin (6.6) via SF
Some sort of commission I believe. This is fairly dry stored. Woody, BBQ, retired smoke. I had one session get quite sour, but the second was a bit better. The tea overall is soft and woody. This is also disappointing in the sense that it lacks the punch or strength to really go much further. Not every pre-reform XG tea can be a winner. This is pretty mediocre IMO.
2001 Xiaguan Chawang Yellow (7.5) via Taishunhe
From Taishunhe via Quiche Group Buy. Thanks to that buy, there’s quite a bit of the Chawang circulating western tea circles. This is a little less aggressively stored than Yang’s version and for me a satisfying factory tea that’s in a nice place now. Very smooth, moderate body, oily, good depth. A lot of sweetness that is fairly persistent. Not the densest or strongest Xiaguan, but has a good aftertaste and easy enough to drink. If I were to be critical, this tea isn’t as strong as some of the better factory examples.
2001 Xiaguan Da Hongfei T8653 (7.3)
Consumed blind from Phobos. Good, but not great tea. Has a nice punch, some light bitterness and resin to it. Sort of like the 1999 Jiaji it is over relatively quick. It has a nice density to it and it does have a good amount of of bitterness.
Reflecting on this vs. the Heifei, this is the less impressive tea by a decent margin but also more ready to drink. Was slightly surprised to find this was a T8653. To me the gap between the Dahongfei and Heifei is larger than the Thin vs. Thick versions I’ve had from 2005.
2001 Xiaguan Heifei (8) via TWL
Consumed blind from Phobos. Perhaps the more promising teas I’ve had from these Xiaguan reports. This is somewhat similar to the 2005 Xiaguan T8653 in basic profile. Similarly thick, but a couple grades stronger. The initial steep and aroma have that very classic menthol, pine wood, sweet aroma that make me immediately assume this is a T8653.
What stands out here is the smoky peatiness/BBQ that is still very much intact. This tea is well aged but still has plenty of fuel in the tank to continue to age. I would consider buying this if TWL restocks.
2003 Xiaguan Teji Red Eye (7.2) via SF
This is apparently an early version of a Teji and thankfully moderately stored. The tea itself is enjoyable. It is more mellow, sweet, herbal, and woody than a Jiaji and not as packed with that Xiaguan intensity. It has a bit of resin, but not enough fuel to convince me there’s a ton of room for it to improve. The tea has overall decent (for a tuo) depth but fails to standout much beyond that. I think this might be a decent reference for Teji tuos, which I know much less well than Jiajis.
2003 Xiaguan FT Jiaji (6.5) via Laochafei
Consumed blind from Phobos after the Heifei. This one is OK. I do wonder if it suffers a bit because I had it shortly after the 2001 Heifei. it is very mellow. I don’t have Baoyan very frequently, but the coarse wood smoothness reminds me a bit of that. Very different from an 8653 profile. softer and to me lacks enough density and punch to be interesting.
2004 Xiaguan TFT8653 (6.7) via Laochafei
Consumed blind from Phobos. Nice enough, mellow, woody and easy drinking. Seems like it saw some humid storage but it is still pretty clean. I think due to the storage this presents quite different from the Taiwan-stored/MX-stored FT8653s I’ve had.
2005 Xiaguan T8653 SF (6) via SF
I really like this tea from MX. Unfortunately the SF version is overstored. It is mellow, woody, chocolatey. While drinkable, not exciting or interesting.
2005 Xiaguan TFT8653 (6.6) via Laochafei
Consumed blind from Phobos immediately after the 2004. Very sweet and woody. Has a bit of an acidic bite.
I was very surprised when I found out this was also a FT8653 products. Storage really makes a huge difference. Neither this nor the 2004 seemed to similar to each other either. They also both lacked that profile from my previous encounters with the 2004 FT8653 and the 2005 FT8653 (MX).
Last Thought
Finding good Xiaguan is hard! There are many wrong turns including storage and the batch/tea quality itself. Even teas that I know should be good are unsatisfying if the storage isn’t good. I very well may buy the Heifei from TWL if they restock it as its a tea that does hit a lot of the right boxes.
There is a film studio in Japan called Toei. They’re not the most well known Japanese studio but they’re reasonably large and have been around for 75 years. In the 60s and 70s they specialized in making B-Movies and were heavily associated with the Jitsuroku era of Yakuza films (most famously Kinji Fukasaku’s Battles Without Honor or Humanity). These are abrasive, subversive films filled with anti-heroes who replaced the classical, heroic yakuza from a few years before. These Jitsuroku films are composed of angry tattooed men berating and beating other angry tattooed men, filmed in a hyper-kinetic hand held style. There’s some legitimately great ones, but also a lot of chaff. It can take sorting through a few of these to find the hidden gems. Fans of these films (myself included) sometimes call themselves Toei Masochists, presumably due to the hard hitting nature of the films and the labored process of looking for gems..
Drinking through my fair share of Xiaguan over the last 10 years, I wonder if masochism isn’t an appropriate term for us tea drinkers that can’t quite quit the crane. Xiaguan fans in the west lovingly call themselves the Crane Gang after the famous crane logo that Xiaguan uses. Even though I’ve drank a lot of the stuff I am still filled with mixed feelings about Xiaguan. Sure I’ve had some good enough teas from them, but I’ve also endured a good deal of crane-induced punishment. Maybe I should be more aptly referred to as a Xiaguan Masochist. After all even in 2024, one of my first ideas for a tea of the month report was yet another Xiaguan report. And as a glutton for punishment here are several thousand words (the longest report yet).
One of my goals after my daughter displaced my tea room has been taking stock of what I do have, get organized, and clean out unwanted samples and cakes. I’ve drank through Xiaguan in three previous tea of the month reports in 2015 to 2017 with mixed results. In the initial report I took a photo of the crane on my toilet and compared it with their logo, summing up the lackluster teas.
In the process of clearing out cakes, Xiaguan also probably represents the most evicted tea brand of 2024/25. It’s an easy brand to accumulate due to their appealing prices and 100 gram tuos.
Here are approximately 40 reviews of Xiaguan or Xiaguan related teas all in one place (a full year of inbetweenisodes).
In the 2016 report, I mentioned a few rules for making calculated gambles that still apply. These were largely implemented after the toilet bowl Xiaguan drinkfest.
Buy sufficiently old. I used to think 10 years was enough, but now I think 15 years and ideally 20. 15 year old Xiaguan really isn’t very expensive and an extra 5 years of storage will significantly hepl the tea.
Select humidly stored tea from: southern China, Taiwan, Malaysia. If you follow (1) and (2) properly, there won’t be an overwhelming amount of smoke in the teas.
Travel well-trodden paths and don’t cheap out. There’s a lot of teas and batches. Your rate of success will be much higher if you use other’s recommendations rather than selecting randomly. Spending up is usually good. $80 vs $60 isn’t that big a difference in the end. My batting average got much better when I started corresponding with Toby, who is a true Xiaguan man and had lots of recommendations. Thanks sir!
I also have a very loose calculation scale, which I use to estimate ~biological age of teas. It’s not hyper accurate on a case by case basis, but I find it useful to estimate how far along a tea has been without the need for subjective judgements.
Formula: AGE SCORE = 2x(years of aging in humid place) + 1x(years of aging in non-humid place)
The formula implies that two years in a more humid place like Taiwan or Guangdong is worth 2 years in Kunming or Seattle. Is this accurate? In some cases maybe, in others maybe not – but I’m using it as a quick approximation to compare biological maturation. I would guess that these teas probably need about 35 in terms of an age score to start to become drinkable for my tastes. I used AGE SCORE to filter out a couple dozen teas that I have around to make life easier on myself.
Goals:
Stash check and updating the review archives! Determine how Xiaguan is doing in my storage. As I’ve gotten back into a tea rhythm, I’ve been surprised how useful old TeaDB content on teas has been for myself. The videos can be useful, but the reports in particular are interesting as time capsules and to see my own history with these teas.
Establish an average Xiaguan to benchmark against. And an average factory tea.
Composting things and giving them away when appropriate.
Finish off whatever else I have laying around.
A couple teas I did not get around to including (a) a few pre-reform teas I ordered from Shunfeng that did not arrive in time. (b) what has been described as the 2011 Xiaguan Budget Bangers.. Xiaguan Jinse Yinxiang, 2011 Xiaguan Jinse Chuanqi, 2011 Xiaguan Huangjin Yun, and 2011 Xiaguan 8113 Spring Bulang.
These Teas Require Good Storage
Xiaguan is a tea that needs good storage and time. I am judging the tea I am having under its current conditions, not the tea production overall. The storage conditions play very heavily into my own enjoyment and ultimately rating of these teas. For instance I ended up preferring the 2005 T8653 January Thick Paper from southern China over the 2003 T8653 presumably stored in Taiwan. It’s very possible that the 2003 has better material, but its still abrasive, leading me to prefer the 2005. The 2005 XG FT8653-5 vs. 2006 XG TFT8653-6 is another case where the 9 years of storage in Seattle for the FT5 haven’t done it any favors. Given a storage reversal, I may end up preferring the opposite tea. So why not judge the base material of the tea? Frankly, it’s too much mental gymnastics and I’d rather judge what is in my cup and use the presumed storage history to add a small amount of context rather than apply some theoretical base material ranking. Adding to the storage confusion, even though Xiaguan is best stored in a hot and humid climate it is still possible to be too wet. There are a few teas this report that have had their potential muted by over-storage.
This is a category of tea where most of the teas I’ve acquired have been from the mainland and not Taiwan or Malaysia. A huge chunk were purchased through MX Tea, a taobao XG specialist, whose storage generally agrees with me. Selecting storage is also a big reason to use stores like TWL that curate their teas heavily. This will prevent potential errors like storage and batches even if the price you pay is a bit higher your batting average with these teas will also be pretty good.
The Teas
A quick note on ratings… I’ve tried to update my system to allow a bit more of a spectrum rather than grouping up everything together. So the rating update will not line up 100% with past ratings.
12/23/24 Schedule…. Tuos: The Day of the Crane
If there’s anything that typifies my feelings as a Xiaguan Masochist, it was a morning designed and dedicated to drinking through a pile of tuos. Why spend a torturous week drinking one a day when you can power through a bunch at once!? I ended up successfully getting through 8 and I feel pretty good about my judgements despite being pretty burnt out by lunchtime.. Here’s the rough schedule I had sketched out.
6:30AM Wake. Drink mediocre XG ripe pu’erh. 8AM Wife goes to work. 9AM Daughter takes nap. 9:02AM Operation Crane begins. 10:20AM Daughter wakes and dropped off at daycare. Temporary pause of Operation Crane. 10:45AM Operation Crane resumes. 11:47AM Runoff Crazy Crane Body Qi (just lots of caffeine) 12:42PM Eat pizza to restore body to equilibrium.
I used my bag of tricks to get through these… Double rinse, and being quick to dump cups once I get an assessment. This is limiting in some ways, but I do feel like I get reasonably good judgements without drinking too much caffeine.. The end result, two ended up in the give away bin. Here are the tuos in quick succession.
2004 Xiaguan Jiaji (6.4)
Pretty much all acquired from MX Tea. I didn’t feel the need to subject myself to all the Jiajis I have. The 2003, 2004, and 2005 are all pretty similar with a slight quality improvement by going back in years. I did that comparison before (see below).
Started with this as a reference tea. This is solid as far as Xiaguan goes. I don’t want to drink it that often, but it is satisfactory for a 20 year old factory tea. I wanted to start with the Jiaji to use it as a reference. It is thick, dense, and woody. Little sweetness. A bit of retired smoke. Sturdy little thing.
2004 Xiaguan FT T004 (4.8)
I bought a few sleeves of this from MX on a 11/11 deal in 2018. Supposedly an acclaimed tuo. I hadn’t had this in years and was hoping it’d be ready to drink. Unfortunately it’s not that great right now.. Sad, slow Seattle storage hasn’t moved it much. It does have a couple nice things going for it: the texture and smoothness. Although it has some density, it is thinner than the Jiaji from the same year. Both teas have an age score of 35, but this tastes relatively greener than the Jiaji. I suspect this has had lighter storage despite both coming from MX. Sometimes 20 years isn’t enough.. Back into storage..
2004 Xiaguan Canger FT (5.4)
This is much fruitier than the other tuos and is probably at about a 1:1 fruit to wood ratio. Depending on how you brew it, it can be somewhat sweet or quite astringent. It has a cohesive but simple profile. It doesn’t really hit my spots, but it’s alright if you like this profile (fruit forward). I’d give this away, but I think it’s OK as a reference since it’s quite different from the Jiaji.
2004 Xiaguan Songhe (3.2)
One of the least impressive teas of this run. Very thin, astringent and just really not much there. EVICTED!
I had assumed this was MX but found out later this was Kunming stored, makes sense..
2006 Xiaguan Purple Box Fangcha FT (5.5)
Muscatel and wood nose. Higher notes and more refined than the burly Jiaji in general. Body is a bit tangy but mixes in sweetness, wood and a bit of fruit (although not as much as the Canger). This is OK, but if it doesn’t meet my standards and I have enough similar stuff that I don’t really want it around. EVICTED!
This tea was one of the better teas in the original Xiaguan report. Sad!
2006 Xiaguan Gold Ribbon FT (6.6)
This was a Toby rec and I’ve always liked these mid 2000s gold box productions. They feel like an attempt at a slightly fancier product that doesn’t require the heavier storage hand others do. Interesting to have this back to back with the Purple Box. They both have a similar muscatel-wood profile. The Jinsi (Gold Ribbon), however, is more enjoyable. Nice silky texture, smoother, and good balance of sweetness. The density is still nice and it feels more substantial than the Purple Box. This is not an amazing tea, but is one of the highest rated tuo of the report. It’s good and solid provided expectations aren’t too high. I think the Nanzhao fits into this same niche, but even one more step in the refined direction.
2008 Xiaguan Xizi FT (5.7)
This is higher noted with more florals and brown sugar. Probably a byproduct of not having undergone as much southern Chinese storage. Similar to other FT products it is a bit sweeter with a bit of retired smoke. It’s OK.
2005 Xiaguan Yincang (6.4)
After all those tuos, I was in the mood to evict this but it ended up winning me over. Wood, resin, nice texture. Maybe the tea most similar to the Jiaji, in the sense that it leans heavily towards a woody and not particularly sweet profile. There’s decent density here too. The main reason to go for the Jiaji over this is the fact that it is such a standard reference.
After enduring all eight of these in a single morning, I felt about as alert and sickened as I would if a tatted up yakuza were shouting at me.
Other Tuos
2010 Xiaguan DX Tuo (5.2)
Recommended to me by Toby. This has an annoyingly bulky box that makes the Jiaji box look reasonable (sleeves are the best).
Definitely somewhat different from a standard Xiaguan tuo. Maybe a second cousin from out of town. The age score is a lot lower (25) than anything else this month and it really does show. It has two standout features that set it apart, (a) a more refined silk texture and (b) decent mouth coating sweetness. It is intriguing, but too green to drink now. Also on the downside it’s body isn’t as dense or as substantial as other Xiaguans that rank higher in this report which is a bit concerning long term. Scott sells a 2010 brick from DX that might be interesting as an easier purchasing channel.
2004 Xiaguan FT Nanzhao (6.7)
A last minute addition picked up from LP’s January releases. I’d always had this one on my radar as it’s a well known tea and while you can technically get it cheaper on Taobao, I was also curious about the Malaysian storage. This production specifically (2004) may or may not have Banzhang material in it. My previous notes with it a decade ago had it as a tea of note, coming across as a highly atypical Xiaguan. This is the first year of this special production which makes it more sought after. First year productions are also sometimes a bit better than the same product a few years later.
Redrinking it 10 years later my notes line up closely. Even more than the XG gold ribbon the Nanzhao really doesn’t taste like normal Xiaguan or for that matter Banzhang. It does however have some nice throatiness, texture, and a good aftertaste. It is lightly oily, not particularly dense, leaning more towards a refined profile. Taste profile is antique wood, herbal with some light raisin sweeetness. This is one of the nicer tuos of the month, but it just doesn’t really feel as dense and packed like more standard Crane Brand. Firmly represents the softer side of Xiaguan.
2011 Xiaguan FT Nanzhao (5.6)
Sent by Emilio at The Jade Leaf as a sample, conveniently making this a nice comparison. Like the 2004, the 2011 has a softer profile and is much more drinkable than you’d think given its relative youth. They both feel like cousins to the Gold Ribbon Tuos. Nice sweetness, texture, smoke in a pleasant way. Mostly woody with a touch of fruit. Lacks the density and strength you’d expect from a more typical Xiaguan, but this is cheap and cheerful if you want something inexpensive and softer than 90% of Xiaguan teas.
2003 Xiaguan FT 7623 (5.5)
This one was from Chawangshop back in the day. It’s ultimately very baseline. Starts out with a bit of fruit to accompany the standard wood Xiaguan taste. It is not bad but if I haven’t drank it in the 10 years of having it and does not show anything intriguing in this session that would change that. It’s just not interesting enough to keep around. Evicted!
2003 Xiaguan Jiaji (5.8) via SF
Tried blind from Phobos after another blind sample. Thanks! Very woody. Has undergone some lightish traditional storage or gotten a bit wet. The tuo is very woody, and creamy, a bit milky. It’s not bad, but I don’t find it to be very satisfying. Having this after the superior 2003 Xiaguan 8653 does the tea no favors.
I was somewhat surprised as the tea does not resemble the 2003 XG Jiaji I have from MX at all. The tea could’ve masqueraded as even older and it would not have shocked me. Storage for Xiaguan can be too light, but also overdone as is the case here. Storage is king!
2002 Xiaguan Teji (6.0)
This one is not from MX, but from a Shenzhen vendor that kept his tea on the dry-side of things. Unfortunately this is a tea that could’ve used more of a push and similar to the T004 is a disappointment despite its age score being relatively high (42). It crosses me as a classical wood, retired smoke, lightly sweet Xiaguan that was stored dry and isn’t as juicy or as substantial as you would hope for a 23 year old tuo. It is a similar level to the Jiaji but I enjoy it less, likely due to the storage. This one will go back into storage.
FT Tuos – sweeter, softer, a bit more texture, a little better?
Having all these teas in a short succession has some definite advantages and disadvantages. One disadvantage is it’s a pretty unenjoyable way to drink and appreciate tea. Teas I enjoy like the Gold Ribbon or even the Jiaji were used as more of a measuring stick rather than something to appreciate and enjoy.
One advantage is that you can more clearly see possible patterns. FT seems to have a reputation for being a bit less brash than vanilla XG. In the tuos I found FT were on average more textured, a bit sweeter, slightly softer, with improved longevity. I’d probably describe them as a little better, but it depends a lot on the individual production and year. I also wouldn’t make any hard rules like always buy FT or never buy regular XG products.
Note: I wouldn’t describe the difference in XG vs. XG FT cakes the same way, although (IMO) the FT Pink #4’s most notable attribute is its texture.
Cakes
2013 Xiaguan FT Love Forever Paper Tong (7.1)
Really a XINO (Xiaguan in name only). For those unfamiliar with the alleged origin story… The tea is made of aged maocha that was supposedly leftover from famous Dayi productions (Jin Dayi) in 2003. Sure! Whatever you say FT..
It is hard to know what to believe but the profile is far more Menghai-ish and aged than a typical 2013 production. The tea used to be quite burly and bitter, but turned the corner shortly after I got gifted a tong for my wedding in 2017. The tea is very tasty now with a fruit-wood profile. Good thickness and while it can certainly get bitter its sharper edges have softened a lot. Others have noted a cherry like note to this, and while I wouldn’t quite describe it that way it has some brightness to it that vaguely resembles a cherry note. This has also always been a cake that people complain about inconsistencies, but since I’m experienced with the material (I’ve finished a cake) I’ve learned to lean in or out of the tea and don’t really get bad sessions with it.
One small tip on this one: don’t be stingy and brew up lots of dust. This is probably good advice in general, but especially true for something that is punchy and sensitive to a heavy hand like LFPT.
2009 Xiaguan DX 7223 (6.5)
Picked one up from MX at the end of last year on a whim. Like Love Forever this uses aged maocha and is a special production, made by Dehexin who supposedly had their hand in the Double Lions along with the Malaysian teahouse. This is a Bulang blend from 2005-2007 and the less expensive production they made this year. The more costly production allegedly has Banzhang.
The tea is overall pretty good, but not as big a hit as I had hoped. Certainly not a home run or even a double.. Maybe a single. It has a nice fruit sweetness that coats the throat. A bit woody. Mostly it is not as big as I hoped, feeling a bit narrow and not too much Bulang bitter. Some retired smoke. Still a bit resinous and has some room to improve. Overall I prefer the stronger Xiaguan LFPT, but I could easily see an alternate universe where this tea garners a similar level of popularity to LFPT. Not a bad one to seek out if a relatively affordable ($50ish) aged Bulang blend sounds appealing.
2006 Xiaguan FT Pink #4 (6.2)
Recommended to me by Toby ages ago. I was surprised by this one as it was better than my memory. Nice aroma and this tea hints at smoke more than other teas in this report. Woody, reasonably thick, and some residual sweetness. I do think the ceiling is limited for such teas. It is mostly just decent and expectations have to be tempered. But it has solid density and the texture does stand out. You can still track this one down easily for a pretty reasonable price. Compared to my previous notes it is considerably improved. I pulled my cake into rotation where we’ll see how it does on the speed test.
2004 Xiaguan FT 8653-3+1 (7.4)
Turned onto this by Toby and Emilio of The Jade Leaf in 2017/2018? I had the TW stored version which I believe Emilio sells. This is an interesting tea.. It is extremely pungent, resinous, oily, menthol-heavy and woody. It also feels substantial with good strength and density. After a challenging Christmas Day, this tea was particularly satisfying. I think this tea is worth checking out even if you’ve had the conventional T8653. I quite enjoy it and it crosses me as significantly different from the 2005 T8653 Thick Paper or the 2003 T8653 which are much more similar to one another. I do think the FT8653-3+1 is very likely to be polarizing due to its very pungent characteristics. This is one that isn’t talked about that much, but perhaps should be.
I did manage to re-try this before the end of the report and indeed still like it, even as it wasn’t as pungent and intense as my Christmas Day session. The notes aren’t that different from normal Xiaguan 8653, but it presents very differently in ways that are obvious if you have them side by side.
I unexpectedly had the opportunity to pickup a few cakes of this for an attractive 2000NTD, so did end up buying 3 more cakes. Thanks Quiche!
2005 Xiaguan FT 8653-5 (6.6)
Bought a cake from MX back in 2015. This is decent and serviceable and basically a more palatable version of the 2004. Unfortunately it does suffer a bit in comparison with the 3+1 and falls on the wrong side of boring at times. The base flavor profile is the same: menthol, wood, some oiliness but it does not feel as substantial. It is unclear to me how much is the original material vs. the storage, the experience it offers is a significant step down from the 3+1. Consumed against the thick paper later and it holds up reasonably well. The thickness and oiliness is impressive but it is also a bit hollow in comparison with the standard Iron Thick January.
2006 Xiaguan FT T8653-6 (6.8)
Perhaps due to being an iron cake, this is a bit different than the 2004 and 2005 FT I have. Some smoke that seems like it is on the way out. I think the extra time in a humid climate (the 2005 FT has been in Seattle for nearly a decade) has benefited it. Profile is a mix of wood, pine, menthol which sounds similar to normal T8653, but does present itself a bit different than standard Xiaguan. Consistent with some of the other FT products it has a pleasing, refined texture. Still powdery and can use more time but definitely heading in the right direction. Not as satisfying as the 2004 FT 8653, but more than the 2005.
2003 Xiaguan Xiaofei 8653 (7.2) SF
Blind from Phobos. Smells like 8653, menthol wood, oily, mouthcooling. Herbal, nice texture, a bit of depth to the back of the mouth. After having this revealed, it’s nice to know that non iron 8653 can follow a similar cake trajectory as iron cake 8653 provided it has the right storage.
This is pretty close to my ideal storage for Xiaguan. Interestingly it comes from Shunfeng who is all over the map on storage, some too wet and others like this pretty good.
2006 Xiaguan XY BGT (6.3)
From a part of a blind sampling a few years ago. Made by XY.
This is technically a decent tea just generic and boring (to me). It is also very un-Xiaguan like. It has decent thickness, plum sweetness, wood. It’s fine and has nice clarity with its profile just pretty dull. I’ve had the 2012 and had similar feelings.
2001 Xiaguan XY 8853 (7)
Stored by a Shenzhen dealer who keeps his teas drier (same as Teji). Also made by XY.
Similar to the 2006 Xiaguan BGT, this has a very clear profile that is a bit different than XG. It is also technically a decent tea, but I find it dull for its pricepoint. Rather than the classic wood-pine-methol, this is far more wood dominant. It is oily but a lot less than a T8653. Also a bit more retired smoke than those teas. Good mouth sweetness and thickness.
I’ve heard there’s a few versions of the 2001 8853, so that could perhaps account for some of the difference here.
2001 Xiaguan XY Green Chawang (7.4)
These two Chawangs were generously supplied by Emmett, thank you! They both have the Yang storage, but neither one really tastes like his warehouse.
The storage has moved this to a much better place than the 8853. Ye Binghuai (the maker) says this is an Yiwu and while I don’t have a firm opinion, I do not find that completely unbelievable. Although the processing is obviously far more in a factory style, the tea reaches deeper and has a stronger throat feel than almost all the other Xiaguans in this report. Soft, woody, silky texture. It is not an overly complex tea but it is a satisfying one with a good lingering sweetness.. I finish the session feeling quite nice.
2001 Xiaguan XY Yellow Chawang (7.4)
Also from the Yang warehouse. Thanks Emmett! This is roughly the same caliber tea as the Green with a few differences (keeping in mind I’m judging from just a couple sessions).
It feels like it is also turning the corner, and is perhaps a few years behind the Green. It has a greener fragrance, more resin and retired smoke. The tea is also a bit more flavor-forward with wood, muscatel sweetness, and a light tang. Texture is a bit more syrup rather than silk. Overall, I’d say this is more complex with an interesting mouthfeel and a bit more active than the Green but with less depth and throat feel. I liked my session with the Green more but this is also a satisfying tea.
2001 Green Sun (7.4)
Not a Xiaguan, but made by Ye Binghuai as well. And also supposedly an Yiwu.. Also from Yang’s storage (thanks again Emmett). Very different than the Xiaguan productions he made of the same year and feels more like a predecessor to the Yiwu cakes that would come. Pleasant, soft, sweet, potpourri, resin, wood. More “Yiwuish” than the Xiaguans. Has a nice throat sweetness.. I am a sucker for these teas, even if this has relatively short longevity.
Iron Cakes (non FT)
2005 Xiaguan T8653 Thick Paper January (7.2)
Bought four of these in 2021 from MX with no regrets. It’s one of my reference cakes and I’ve drank quite a bit of a cake. The profile is a familiar one if you’ve drank any Xiaguan iron cake 8653 from this period. Oily, thick, menthol, heavy wood and pine profile. No smoke. Longevity is just OK but it is very satisfying. In this case, the batch is clearly good and the storage helps to complete the tea (MX is a Xiaguan specialist). Very nice all around and easily passes the speed test.
For those that are curious about the thin version or non Iron I’ve recorded a video on the Thick vs. Thin vs. a non-Iron. I’d heartily recommend a well-stored thick paper version (January/February/March).
2005 Xiaguan Grade A Iron Cake February (6.8)
I bought this back in 2020 for reasons I no longer remember. Someone said it was sort of like 8653 and MX didn’t have any at the time? This is the first batch and while it doesn’t quite live up to the T8653 it is good and enjoyable. Oily, menthol, wood. Resinous.. Just a little thin compared to the iron cake, but overall satisfying. Decent aftertaste.
2004 Xiaguan? 8653?? Iron from Malaysia (6.9)
This was picked up by a local tea buddy on his trip back home to Malaysia. Thanks Meng! Meng, Garrett, and I split four cakes three ways as a fun way to sample some of the local offerings. It was supposedly T8653 like or going for something similar. They were mostly around $50-60 and all were good for the money. This ended up being my favorite of the batch. I was curious to see how this tea would match up with all the other iron cakes being consumed.
It stacks up pretty well! It is thick and very oily, with the familiar heavy pine/wood/resin. It is very believably Xiaguan like. Doesn’t brew out forever but it has a likable 8653-ish profile. Even my wife who normally does not enjoy non-trad sheng, didn’t mind a couple cups I gave her.
2003 Xiaguan T8653 (6.6)
From a sample a couple years ago. Xiaguan is one type of tea where I don’t own many TW-stored stuff. This was an interesting session, partly because it was (surprisingly to me) a bit less satisfying than the MX Xiaguans. In this era, you’d expect earlier productions to be a bit better, so this ran counter to my own expectations.
I think it boils down to storage. In the case of the others, they were stored in Malaysia (2004 XG Iron) or by MX (a XG specialist in Guangdong). This tea while not poorly stored has not yet ironed out the more rough acrid edges that make it an inferior experience, despite what is possibly superior material.
A bit tart, acrid, and bitter. Gets very oily with a nice mouthcoat. Familiar wood, menthol. Hints at more retired smoke than other iron cakes. Above average longevity.
2001 Xiaguan T8653 Da Hongfei (6)
This is a Kunming stored Da Hongfei version from Yunnan Sourcing. Supposedly the Heifei has more potent material. Info on the different 2001 versions (Thanks Phobos).
This is quite slow to get going, and does start out smoother than one might expect. It does eventually get heavier, very resinous with some bitterness. While it isn’t particularly thick this is quite green. Storage is king when it comes to Xiaguan. It hints but doesn’t quite get to the menthol, wood note that the wetter stored teas have. You can get a thicker brew, but are hit with a potent bitterness.
1999 Xiaguan T8653 (7) Shenzhen Vendor
From the Shenzhen vendor who keeps his teas dry. This is both one of the better teas of the month and also a disappointment.
On its own it is an enjoyable enough brew, but I do not find this meaningfully more enjoyable compared with the 2005 T8653. It gets very oily and extremely woody. Curiously missing the menthol note, but otherwise fits into the nice pine wood profile. Overall pretty simple and I think it’d be pretty satisfying if I could set my expectations more appropriately. Similar to the 2001, I’m left wondering what an MX stored version of this would be like.
1999 Xiaguan T8653 (7) Shunfeng
From Shunfeng on Taobao. Same rating as the one from Shenzhen, but very different drinks.
While the Shenzhen vendor keeps his teas drier than my preferences, this one unfortunately swings too far the other way. This seems to have gotten some traditional storage early on and has aged beyond that menthol, wood phase. It still resembles a Xiaguan cake and it certainly isn’t Yee On level of traditional storage, but the storage is not ideal. It is a pleasing easy drinker, oily, woody, and in the end quite a simple tea. Slightly younger 8653 give a hint at what might’ve been. Interestingly, neither 1999 T8653 had that cooling menthol note that I get in the 2000s XG Iron Cakes. Until I try a more ideally stored one I will chalk that up to storage.
Iron Cakes > Tuos
After all the tuos these iron cakes were a refreshing change and on average much better than the tuos. I am noting to myself that iron cakes stored in popular hot and humid hotspots are starting to get into a very nice place at around 20 years.
Brewing these is a bit different than normal caked pu’erh. I used a gaiwan, which I found effective because of the fuller feedback you get. You can easily see the liquor color and leaves unfurling very easily. This allows you to modulate the brews more easily than in a pot. In my case, I believe it outweighed the positive of extra heat retention and allowed me to brew more evenly. I also got into a good rhythm with them as I brewed them relatively regularly for this report.
For Comparison’s Sake
One thing I like to do towards the end of these themed drinkings is brew something that would make a good comparison. In this case, big factory raw from the mid 2000s from other factories, Dayi and Mengku Rongshi.
2006 Dayi 8582 (7.2)
This is probably my favorite Dayi recipe, and I’ve always found it does better on the speed test than 7542. Nice big, broad body, woody, coats the mouth in sweetness. This one is ready to be consumed: thick, reasonably smooth, with a pleasing texture. Similar to the 2005 T8653, very satisfying and refreshing after mediocre Xiaguan. This beats most of the teas from this month. Sorry Crane Gang, but Big Benefits > Shimonseki.
2004 Mengku Rongshi Qizibing (7)
Similar to the 8582, this one fits as a comparison point. An aged factory production from the mid 2000s. It was also probably one of the best value buys I ever did, costing something like $25. In some ways I prefer it to the more esteemed YYX from an earlier year. This has the added benefit of being northern as well.
The tea is nothing crazy, but a solid workhouse. A clear profile that isn’t very dynamic but simple and enjoyable. It’s the sort of tea you drink a bunch when you’re more settled in your taste, provided you like the profile. This easily passes the speed test in my case. Wood, coco, mid-level thickness. Brews out for a while with a generally warming and not cold profile. Compared to Xiaguan teas in this report, it is very different. Basically goes for very different profiles with none of that menthol, pine, wood, resin activity that dominates the 8653 and other XGs. Interesting to try but not especially informative in this context.
2000 Mengtong Jiaji (6.4)
An off-brand tuo sold by YS. It’s decent and drinkable. Relatively on par with Jiaji. It has ideal storage that has moved the tea along but not too wet. Lots of retired smoke that hints heavily at a previous life as a smoke heavy tea. Otherwise, woody, burly, with some sweetness.
Trad. Stored & Old Ripes
These don’t really fit with the other teas but are fun easy drinkers made by Xiaguan.
2001 Xiaguan Pine Crane Jiaji Tuo (8)
Sold and stored by Yee On.
A pretty ideal traditionally stored tea. Oily, rich, wood. Has a heavy earthy, beetroot sweetness. A bit of syrup texture. Makes me wish there were more well done traditional stored XG available. You could add a bunch of notes that are synonyms to earth, but it’s mostly just a richer, nicer traditionally stored pu’erh.
1994 Xiaguan Tuo Ripe (7.5)
Another one sold by Yee On.
This is not a complex tea, but a simple profile that is very satisfying. Rich, creamy, ginseng, beetroot. Fairly thick and lightly sweet. For me this is chuggable tea. If you are someone that thinks they just like raw and have avoided traditionally stored ripe, please consider trying some of this and the cheaper Yee offerings.
1990s Xiaguan Brick (6.6), friend
Picked up by a tea friend in the last couple years. Fairly low grade material (as one would expect), and possibly traditionally stored early on. It is an easy to drink, smooth brew. It has a nice silk texture. Nothing crazy but an interesting time capsule towards the humble tea blue-collar big factories were cranking out in the 1990s.
1990s Xiaguan Brick (6.7), Houde
A sample bought from Houde. This is more or less as expected. Solid, medium-thick, wood, hints of dates (feels like a cousin of 7581). One reason I like traditionally stored ripe is it adds an interesting herbal+ginseng element to it. This is a perfectly functional drinker that while solid is also kind of dull. I do think teas of this caliber will depend a lot on the individual preferences. There is certainly some enjoyable characteristics. It is a tea that knows what it is and offers a clear, defined profile. I rank this a slight bit higher than the other brick as the base material crosses me as a bit better and it offers a thicker, denser brew.
VOATO: What is the Average Factory Tea? What is the Average Xiaguan?
One of the goals here was establishing the ATO (Average Tea Owned) in this category (Xiaguan). The average is probably the 2004/05 Jiaji, a relatively ordinary tea that can still be bought for under $0.20/g. If single tuos or cakes are worse than that, they should probably be removed unless they can bring something else to the table. The 2005 T8653 January Thick Paper is better than the average but is probably the better benchmark particularly for the cakes.
If I were to extrapolate this out to factory tea I own, I think the Jiaji would fall a little below average.
These Teas are Inexpensive
Many of these teas have not appreciated that much in price. The tuos in particular are good budget buys provided you like their profile. On the day of the crane, those 40 grams of ~20 year old tea probably set me back something like $3. Hard to beat.
The cakes and iron cakes are a bit more, and probably also where most people should start as the quality is on average higher. The January Thick Paper can be acquired for very reasonable $/g prices, the challenge is finding good storage. The TWL is pricier than other sources, but they do a good job vetting so it’s one I’d likely recommend if you don’t want to shop around too much.
For Your Consideration: $15 2004 Jiaji vs. $10 2005 Jiaji
Consider this case. The $15 2004 Jiaji and the $10 2005 Jiaji.. These teas sold for approximately these price from MX not long ago. They have a similar profile but the 2004 clearly has better material if you side by side them. The 2004 cost $5 or 50% more. Is the tea 50% better? Definitely not.. Perhaps 15-20%? But the $5 additional cost is spread across several sessions. A 5g session, costs a measly $0.25 extra per session. In my opinion a worthwhile tradeoff if your budget isn’t super tight.. Consider spending up for better quality even if it isn’t value optimization.
Why Own These Teas? What is the Upside of These Teas?
I am dubious of these teas aging into anything great. Things like the 2006 Xiaguan Pink, which improved a bit, are unlikely to be anything beyond a solid daily drink.
I bought a lot of the Xiaguan as a low-risk way to get diversity into my stash inexpensively. The positive case is that some of them, especially the ones I own in some quantity, should be decent workhorse teas. And since workhorse teas are the majority of teas I drink, there is a distinct and clear purpose. That all being said, even this more positive case isn’t that exciting. All those cakes of pink do take up space that could be something else.
What do I Actually Own? & Would I Do it Again?
I own quite a bit of:
2013 FT LFPT (no regrets)
2010 XG DX Tuo (minor regrets)
2006 FT Pink #4 (minor regrets)
2006 Jinsi Gold Ribbon (no regrets)
2005 T8653 January Thick Paper (no regrets)
2004/05 Jiaji (no regrets)
2004 FT T004 (minor regrets)
If I were to do this over I’d buy more 2005 Thick paper and avoid the T004 and Pink. I’d probably also get some 2004 Xiaguan FT8653-3+1. The T004 and Pink aren’t huge mistakes as they’re OK and inexpensive. The main thing they take up is space. Their price also hasn’t gone up much, so I would’ve been better off buying them after they’d gotten a few more years of superior storage. I’m still curious to see where they’ll go even if I would not buy them again. The DX Tuo is kind of annoying due to its huge box size but it’s still too young to decide if it’s a dud, although I probably should’ve waited 5-10 years before buying that too.
Storage matters a lot and makes a big impact on your cup. I cannot give these teas accelerated aging, so buying something that is already in a decent place is important. It makes sense to be very particular and fussy about storage in the same way that we are with boutique tea. If you have a hotbox or are in SE Asia, the calculation might be different. But for those of us with an unheated pumidor I think its a good reminder to be very choosy about the storage on teas we buy for later.
Recommendations
Buy these teas:
2005 Xiaguan Thick Paper Jan/Feb T8653 (Stored Somewhere Hot+Humid)
2004/05 Xiaguan Jiaji Tuo (Stored Somewhere Hot+Humid)
2004/06 Xiaguan Gold Ribbon Tuo or 2004/2005 Xiaguan Nanzhao Tuo (Stored Somewhere Hot+Humid)
Why the T8653? A good version represents the appeal of the Xiaguan very well. I am very happy with the cakes I own. There are of course other Xiaguan recipes but I’ve been relatively unenthusiastic about my experience with the 8613 and 8673 (episodes are out for both). The Jiaji iron is decent enough, but I think the January Iron 8653 is the better bet.
As for the Jiaji tuo. There are other tuos I prefer to this, and I like it significantly less than the iron cake but its decent and representative of a certain Xiaguan profile. The profile is also pretty different from the T8653. MX still has this in stock as of early 2025.
The Gold Ribbon and Nanzhao occupy the softer, more approachable Xiaguan niche, something that hasn’t been well covered in the west but should be. Both are nice blends, smoother, and less abrasive. I recommend everyone check them out as they are ready to drink much sooner than conventional Xiaguan.
If you want to try more:
2004 Xiaguan FT8653-3+1 – Unique character that sounds similar but is different from the standard T8653.
2013 Xiaguan Love Forever Paper Tong – Highly atypical XG with some inconsistencies, but a decent Menghai-ish blend. I would not spend over $100 on this personally, but if you can get it for the right price.
Back to Their Cheap & Cheerful Qualities… Xiaguan Budget Propaganda
There’s a lot of tea besides Xiaguan. Heck there’s a lot of northern tea that hardly ever gets talked about or sold to the west, like Baichatang. But.. If you were stuck in Xiaguan jail with $ per day to spend ~$365 and you drink 10 grams a day, what would you buy?
Here’s one proposal. Disregarding shipping.
$120ish – 357 grams 1x 2004 T8653-3+1
$100ish- 357 grams 1x 2005 T8653 Thick Paper
$39 – 600 grams 6x 2007 Gold Ribbon (48RMB for 1 on SF)
$68 – 1000 grams 10x 2005 Jiaji (248RMB for 5 on MX)
$30 – 1428 grams 4x 2019 T8633 Ripe (55RMB on MX)
$357 – 3,742 grams.
And there you have two pretty good Xiaguans and a lot of daily drinking teas that are 18-20 years of age. The rest is filled in with a decent amount of ripe filler from a reliable Xiaguan recipe. I would not be excited about drinking this for a full year, but that’s not bad for a modest budget and a decent tea appetite of 10 grams a day.
Will I Buy More?
My buying has slowed down and I tend to only buy multiple cakes of things a few times a year. I also do not care about value like I used to, so the inexpensive nature of these cakes has more limited appeal than it did to me in 2016. That being said I am still likely to acquire two teas in the future. More T8653 (likely from 2005 or earlier) and the FT8653-3+1 (which I have since acquired). Despite both carrying the 8653 banner and being just a year apart they offer different experiences. The T8653 2005 January is a solid tea and a good reference point. I own 5 cakes already, but I think this is one I can drink for a long time. There are a number of similarish cakes to this here, but this production does standout for its quality and price.
As for the FT 8653-3+1 when I made an instagram post on it, Emilio of the The Jade Leaf commented that the pungency of this tea was compared to the phermones emitted by mature women in a popular Taiwanese blog. A suitable description to a highlight tea in the Xiaguan Masochist report.
Recently, Char (Oolong Owl) joined me for an inbetweenisode to discuss aging and aged white tea. Aged whites have become a topic of increasing interest in the west, and while Denny and I have brought a few onto the show it has not been a principal area of interest for us. Here’s a few of the big points and takeaways I had from that conversation with her. I highly recommend checking out Oolong Owl’s blog and reading up on white teas. She’s written as extensively as any English-language blogger on different aged whites. I recommend watching the original video for those interested in this topic. This is my summation and interpretation of much of the material discussed in the video.
This is an extremely overdue tea drinking report. It was conceived for two reasons. (1) I recently reconfigured my storage into a larger setup. (2) I have a yearly tradition of picking some teas out of deep storage to retry and note their progression (or lack thereof). The latter allows me to get a better feel for my storage and pick out anything going wrong with the teas. This year I picked eight teas from my own storage as well as a couple extras from tea friends, all of which have been stored for a significant chunk of their lifespan in Washington state.(more…)
I had the pleasure of meeting tea vendors and Russian expats Valerii and Jane when I went to Chiang Mai. I had not been planning on any tea meetups on this trip, but Valerii happened to see I was traveling to Chiang Mai on Instagram and we met up for tea. Valerii’s family was very generous and we ended up meeting up a few times during my brief trip, including an outdoor excursion and tea session to the scenic Bua Tong waterfall. After we parted and he sent me home to Seattle with a ton of samples, we agreed to do an interview on the interesting niche he occupies, selling Thai teas.(more…)
To some extent all pu’erh moves together in the market. When the pu’erh bust hit in 2007, teas across the board were hit. Raw tea, ripe tea, Dayi, Changtai, Lao Banzhang, Yiwu.. Of course this is only part of the picture. In the bust’s case, not everything was hit equally and teas definitely didn’t all recover at the same rate.. Some teas rebounded in a year or two, far more quickly than others. Others slowly creeped back up in five or six years and some teas and brands have never recovered.(more…)
When I investigated the teas that western vendors tend to sell (tldr: young raw pu’erh), the topic of pu’erhs value over time was brought up. In that post, I found that the average cost of a young raw pu’erh listed on western vendor’s sites tended to be less expensive than the semi-aged (7-15yrs+) or ripe teas that were listed. You shouldn’t read too much into this as it’s an imperfect comparison. The most obvious flaw is that the source material isn’t the same. There’s no quantitative way to measure the quality of the leaf, which makes the question of value over time tricky to answer. This article kicks off a series of posts looking at the pu’erh market.(more…)
One of the perks (or drawbacks) of having a blog is literally drowning in tea/samples. I’m not really in the market for young tea, especially not cheaper young tea. This is mainly because I don’t drink these teas nearly often enough and the number of samples I cross path with are more than enough to satiate my sporadic young tea craving. As a result, I cranked through this batch of samples pretty quickly in a series of shortish sessions.. Here’s some quick impressions on thoughts on teas I’ve had recently that were priced beneath the Fomo Report on more premium teas (>$0.40/g).(more…)
Big thanks to those that contributed knowledge and time to helping make this a successful trip. You know who you are!
Hong Kong is a very different place than Taipei. Not having been to either, I naively expected a few more similarities. They’re both just big cities in east Asia, right? HK is dense, dense, dense, and built vertically and in general is far more commercial and fast-paced. While I’m more naturally inclined towards somewhere like Taipei, HK has a lot of very nice things that I greatly enjoy, especially the food. Dim Sum, Chinese bakeries, all cheap compared to Seattle prices. Yumm… We spent ~10 nights in Taiwan and four in Hong Kong. The first couple days were used doing relatively standard tourist things (going to tall buildings, Victoria Peak, Star Ferry) which left a bit of time for tea shopping. (more…)
