High-end ripe was an afterthought when I started drinking tea in the early 2010s. There wasn’t easily accessible fancy ripe to do a tea drinking report and ripe was mostly a cheap thing for daily drinking. When White2Tea released Pretty Girls in 2015, I remember a grumpy murmur from the tea community for having the gall to sell $0.20/g ripe. Absurd! But in the past 10 years these sorts of productions have become normal and part of a larger trend towards higher-end ripe. The $0.20/g ripe looks quaint compared to some of the $/g ripe W2T puts out now.. These teas still get less attention than raw, but as evidenced by the large increase in productions there’s clearly a market for higher priced ripe productions made by boutique brands. We now have several years of products done by the usual suspects, enough to have a drink through. The goal of this report is to sample and get a better feel for the landscape of these higher-end ripes made by boutiques. I’ve dabbled and sampled a few but overall this hasn’t been a major area of focus for my own drinking/sampling. Drinking in close succession allows me to place them more accurately and try to understand the different profiles.
I am well aware that boutique ripe existed before 2015. My assertion is that the boutique ripe movement has picked up quite a bit more steam in the last 10-15 years. As usual with a tea of the month report this grew in scope. I originally only wanted 10 teas, but ended up with nearly 20.
I did most of the drinking in February before BFZC ripes showed up at LPs. Next time.
The Two Profiles
In drinking through these, I feel they generally fall into two different categories.
The Asskicker. More bitter, highly punchy material. This ranges from different punchy Bulang sorts with Bitter material that easily persists through the ripening process (think Lao Man E). I think the concept is that these are highly dense, thick and substantive teas that get partly smoothed out through the ripening and will further smooth out over time.
Refined tea.. These could come from wherever but tend to focus more on texture and aftertaste and lack the bitterness of the more asskicking type.
Of course these categories aren’t perfect and a vendor like W2T who does heavy, somewhat experimental blending, has some that are more challenging to place. Even for more conventional blending there is a spectrum as there are teas that will have a smaller touch of the asskicking material and balance it with more typical material.
Both types will generally have much better base material than you wouldn’t normally see in a ripe production.. Most vendors also seem to prefer to keep their boutique ripe on the lighter fermented side of things, although there are some exceptions (W2T Reading Room). The lighter fermentation gives a bit more room for the tea to evolve and change than it would under a more standard fermentation. You can also taste the base profile a bit more clearly. The lighter fermentation also means teas that have a few more years under their belt have softened and evolved a bit.
Small Pot/Gaiwan Gong-Fu Brewing
These teas uniformly do not pass the speed test. I brew a lot of ripe, but most of it fits into cheap stuff for daily drinking. My usual ripe brewing is not well suited for this month. As followers of my inbetweenisodes know, I usually have my ripe in my big blue pot in the morning with my wife. This works fine as most ripe is a forgiving and easy brew that does not require an especially meticulous hand. But for this report I mostly brewed gong-fu. Why? For the asskicker types, this makes it much easier to have a good session as the long pour time can lead to extreme overbrewing and some frankly nasty brews. That could be adjusted, but I’d rather just do gong-fu where it’s easier to respond to the tea than hear my wife complain about the bitter tea she’s drinking in the morning. For a few of the more refined ripe I did brew them in both fashions, to see if there was any performance difference. But even in these cases I defaulted to the gong-fu type brewing.
The Teas
White2tea
For the past decade, White2tea has gotten a lot of attention for their “outrageously” priced ripe. I admire the experimental nature of many of these and do enjoy trying them. They are especially well suited for regular TeaDB episode material with Denny, where we can admire the dynamic, engaging nature of the teas together. White2tea’s teas are probably the most complex and interesting to analyze of the lot.
On the flip-side none pass the speed test for myself. The teas aren’t casual or cheap enough for daily drinking and I’d usually rather drink a Liubao or a raw with some age, even with less dynamism. That all being said, from a sheer let’s talk about tea the fancy W2T teas are fun and interesting..
2024 W2T Machine of Loving Grace (6.6)
Decent, but unexciting tea. Rich, creamy, with some bitterness. It reminds me of a fancier Bawang with a bit more texture to enjoy. Hints at some citrus. It’s kind of stuck in no man’s land, where it is expensive for what it is but not as interesting as W2T’s more expensive ripes.
2023 W2T Reading Room (7.5)
Interesting in the sense that this is far more fully fermented than a lot of the other high-end W2T ripes. As a result, this feels a bit more settled and is indeed quite tasty. Rich, full flavors. Perhaps some sort of Menghai/Bulang blend made of good strong robust material. It feels like a very good version of classical ripe. Rich, vanilla cream. Throat leaves a good aftertaste. There’s a lot of fun complexities to this but this is ultimately an easy tea to understand and enjoy.
2022 W2T Lich Tears (8)
Probably the most interesting W2T ripe and definitely an asskicker. Very complex. It is quite tasty now, but also should get even better. Unlike Reading Room, this is clearly a lighter fermented ripe. It has a very active protracted mouthfeel and small amount of silk texture. Flavor is coco, rich, vanilla cream. A lot has been made about this tea’s bitterness and it definitely has a sturdy vein of pill bitterness flowing through it, but I don’t find it overwhelms the other flavors. It’s definitely not the most bitter tea of the month. The bitterness is most pronounced in steeps 3-5, before fading away. It is also accompanied with some nice sweetness. Very hard to rank as it clearly hasn’t hit its potential.
2021 W2T Reckless Daughter (7.8)
This was the surprise hit of the W2T batch for me. Had it once and liked it a good amount and subsequent sessions cemented it as a very solid and promising ripe.
Reckless Daughter is clearly lighter fermented, but feels cut from a different cloth than W2T’s other ripes. Lighter leaf and brews a dark red hue. It is more regal and refined than the more rambunctious asskicker types. There is bitterness but it’s not the pill sort. Very dynamic, thick, satisfying. Good aftertaste. Set aside a session for Denny later. This is good stuff and different from something like Lich.
2020 W2T The Nameless One (7.2)
Vanilla cream, some bitterness. Coco. This seems to fall in the fancy Bulang (Lao Man E/Banzhang) blend. I initially liked this a bit more, but in the context of other high-end ripes it stands out less. It is still complex and a very good tea, just not as gripping as I originally thought when I recorded an inbetweenisode a few years ago. I would personally pick Lich Tears or Reckless Daughter over this.
Yunnan Sourcing (& Hailang Hao)
Compared to W2T, Yunnan Sourcing and Hailang Hao lean a bit more conventional with their fancy ripe cakes. They aren’t as wildly blended or as dynamic, but have more straightforward easier to understand profiles. Generally speaking, this is my preference even if it might not generate the Thinking Denny memes quite as effectively. They also generally fit neatly into the two popular boutique ripe profiles, asskicker (Lao Man E, Xin Banzhang) and refined (Yibang).. I’d also say, that YS current year or last two year cakes are easily the better value (the HLH cakes get expensive quickly!).
2024 YS Lao Man E Old Tree (7.1)
This fits exactly the image I have of Lao Man E ripe. Pill-like bitterness. Thick vanilla cream. A bit of citrus. Gradually it gets even more bitter before it tapers off. I braced for this profile and found it thick and satisfying. Sometimes tea is helped by certain expectations. That is the case here. If I expected a more conventional ripe, I would hate this. Bracing for the bitter, allows me to appreciate this quite a bit more.
I think this is just a little too bitter for my tastes currently but I do get the appeal. Probably would brew way too strong in my big blue pot (did not attempt).
2024 YS Xin Banzhang Offering (6.8)
One of the less expensive teas of the month. Basically the budget ass kicker profile. Has a nice bittersweet profile, its bitterness is definitely a bit more balanced with other material. Decent amount of tips. My memory of the 2023 is that it got a bit more bitter.
Second session with this had it performing a bit more like a slightly less bitter version of the YS LME/Chawang. Sturdy profile, expansive mouth feel, pill-like bitterness. It’s not overly strong but has a clear and if you’re ready for it pleasing profile. Probably the lowest cost way to get this sort of profile of the teas featured .
2023 YS Lao Man E Old Tree (6.7)
I think I may’ve had a slightly off session. The session lacked the clarity of the 2024 or the Chawang which I’d had the day before. Definitely hints at the profile of the 2024 or 2023 Chawang, but feels a bit different in a way I can’t quite put my finger on. Gets a bit bitter, but not to the level of the 2024 or the Chawang.
2023 YS Chawang (7.5)
Basically should be treated like a LME ripe-base. Greener nose than expected. Hints at fruit, but is sturdily bitter. Definitely of the pill sort. Light wood, vanilla cream. Strong, thick mouthfeel. I knew it was coming and I very much enjoyed it. In my limited experience, this is my favorite of the YS asskickers.
2021 YS 5 Villages Bingdao (6.6)
The charms of Bingdao and northern tea are somewhat lost on me. I’ve yet to be enchanted by many raw tea from there. Sadly this ripe falls into the same camp. It is decent enough and essentially presents as a very clean and decent ripe with nice texture and some mouth cooling. Compared to the asskickers it isn’t particularly potent and its charms don’t live up to my more preferred refined tea.
Hailang Hao
2019 HLH Lao Banzhang (7.5)
Fits very neatly into the asskicker category. It is a very solid and sturdily made tea. Not quite as bitter as the Chawang or some of the LME. Thick, vanilla cream, protracted mouthfeel, very potent brew. It also lasts for quite a while.
2018 HLH Gaoshanzhai (7.4)
I probably enjoy this equally to the HLH LBZ. Caramel, brown sugar, antique wood, nice throat aftertaste. It is also sufficiently thick and oily. After getting through quite a few high-end ripes, this one still managed to stand out. It’s not as textured as the Dragon Brick, but has a greater depth that is very appealing.
Despite being more in the refined category the GSZ is notably lightly fermented. In a mug in my normal morning parameters it packed more of a punch than I anticipated. If we compare this with other of the more refined teas there’s a sharper edge to it than something like the 2012 Xizi Hao Dragon Brick which was likely lightly fermented but aged longer and partly in Taiwan.
2017 HLH Junai (7.2)
Rich, sugary aroma. Vanilla cream, decently heavy pill bitterness. Solid, clear profile. Nothing too dynamic and wild.
I like this just a touch less than the LBZ. The longevity isn’t as good and it feels a bit less thick. Still if you want to get the gist of that tea, I think this is a reasonable substitute and doesn’t cost over $1,000!
Other
2024 CSH Lao Banzhang (6)
Smells of Wo Dui. Thinner and watery compared to the other teas. It does thicken up. I am definitely drinking this too young, and overall it’s OK, but it is fairly disappointing for such an expensive ripe.
I had this as a big mug brew the next day and unfortunately it still didn’t impress. Perhaps it needs to settle. I gave the rest of my sample to Denny who said it was fantastic. Tea is inconsistent sometimes.
2016 Denong Commemorative (6.4)
This is an OK enough tea, but a disappointment as a higher-end ripe. I find this to be perfectly decent, but kind of dull. I don’t doubt there’s quality material here but it doesn’t seem to have a clear purpose or the cohesion like the better teas.
Tastewise it is lighter fermented, has a slight silk texture and a decent body. Otherwise a fairly standard ripe profile. Brewed in the big blue pot it more or less confirms what my gong-fu session. Maybe a bit cooler than a standard ripe. I would guess, likely not Menghai County material..
2012 Xizi Hao Dragon Brick (7.3)
Brighter nose. Complex, antique wood. Very nice texture. Not super thick. Definitely a more refined sort of tea despite having that familiar vanilla cream taste. I’ve heard that some people think this is small leaf varietal, which is believable for me. Compared to something like the HLH Gaoshan Zhai this offers more texture and a bit less depth.
Overall pretty enjoyable and assuming the 2013 is similar, one of the better value buys.
2007/2008? Chenyuan Hao (6.4)
Only had a sessions worth left. Sweet, has a nice antique wood aroma and a moderately oily body. It’s not watery like the CSH, but doesn’t really stand out that much when put against other fancy ripes. We liked this quite a bit when we had this for an episode, so maybe I just got a lesser session at the bottom of the sample bag.
2008 Xizi Hao Xishangjiaxi (8)
A late addition as I had forgotten about its existence, but I own two mini-cakes of it which I discovered while clearing out my old shu cabinet. In my memory this was a good tea, but didn’t remember much else.
In the end, it’s amongst my favorite brews of the month. Definitely in the refined category of shu. Far more of an aged taste than anything else this month, with menthol, antique wood notes. Coats mouth and throat very well and has better depth than most other teas here. In my previous sessions I had noted berries, which have aged out. Flaw-wise it is not ultra thick, but that is nitpicking as this was a perfectly satisfying session.
CYH/XZH must’ve been pretty early on these special products. I haven’t seen many more as early as this.
2007 Dayi Anxiang (8)
We got a big factory RINGER!!??? What’s a ripe report without some Dayi! Bought a cake recently from taobao. The cakes from the Dayi store came drier stored than I had expected. For the raw this was not exactly what I hoped, but for this cake I think it’s pretty ideal as it maintains a good deal of complexity.
Complex, thick, light mouthcool, antique wood. Coats the mouth nicely. Moderate thickness. It’s tip heavy and falls off a bit fast. This is great stuff. It confuses me how this is still relatively affordable! Perhaps there’s just not too many pu-heads into more serious ripe and the ripe drinkers would never spend this amount on a cake? Either way, this is worth a buy if you are a ripe drinker who wants the good stuff.
Recommendations
If you really want value for your buck. I think the older teas are better. The serious tea world has never seemed to take ripe as seriously as raw, and the prices haven’t risen as fast as raw has. I am surprised at how cheap you can find things like the Anxiang (I bought mine for around $100, $0.25/g). Similarly the XZH Dragon Brick is also a good ripe and can be bought in the US domestically from Liquid Proust for $0.40/g ($400/1000g). This is also a very good price when you put it up against anything made in the last few years.
I haven’t really had any asskicking type ripe older than the 2017 HLH Junai so it’s harder to find this type for less. This is too bad as I think these probably significantly improve with age. For those on a budget the 2024 YS Xin Banzhang offers the basic profile without being too expensive. Probably the best bet here is something like the 2023 YS Chawang, which I preferred over YS LME products and I find to be reasonably close to the more expensive HLH products.
In terms of overall recommendations, I think Reckless Daughter and Lich Tears represent their respective categories of modern boutique ripe very well. They are markedly pricier than the value recommendations but if value is less important I think they’re worth checking out.
Buying these is of not the only way to buy pricy ripe. You could also buy older factory tea from the 2000s or 1990s. These teas are often thought of as superior to their more modern cousins, mostly due to the factories having access to better material.
Value Recs:
2012 Xizi Hao Dragon Brick
2007 Dayi Anxiang
2024 YS Xin Banzhang
2023 YS Chawang (not really cheap, but significantly less than HLH/W2T)
Other Recs:
2021 W2T Reckless Daughter
2022 W2T Lich Tears
Takeaways
It is nice to drink pu’erh without considerations about processing and aging. Drinking ripe tea is more straightforward compared with the vigorous debate about which raw teas are better and will age. Perhaps it’s because all the oxygen is sucked up during those debates, or there’s just less to discuss on the more gradual transformation of ripe.
Is there space in my tea diet for these teas? Frankly I’m not sure. In the past, I’ve historically reached for something older or traditionally stored when I want something in a darker, fermented profile. That being said, the selection we have available now is better than it has been in the past. I do indeed like most of the teas here. So perhaps I’ll report back in a couple years. At worst, for the more refined types I can drink them up in the big blue pot in the morning as an overpriced casual brew.
Ripe narrows the bandwidth of teas compared with raw. In typing up these notes I realized how similar each tea sounds to one another. Even teas that are fairly divergent from one another like the HLH LBZ vs. HLH GSZ will have a fair bit of crossover on notes. I also think I’d burn out of these faster if I drank too many of them. Now… Before I type vanilla cream for the 155th time and am forced to add Masochist to another tea report, I will move on.
There is a film studio in Japan called Toei. They’re not the most well known Japanese studio but they’re reasonably large and have been around for 75 years. In the 60s and 70s they specialized in making B-Movies and were heavily associated with the Jitsuroku era of Yakuza films (most famously Kinji Fukasaku’s Battles Without Honor or Humanity). These are abrasive, subversive films filled with anti-heroes who replaced the classical, heroic yakuza from a few years before. These Jitsuroku films are composed of angry tattooed men berating and beating other angry tattooed men, filmed in a hyper-kinetic hand held style. There’s some legitimately great ones, but also a lot of chaff. It can take sorting through a few of these to find the hidden gems. Fans of these films (myself included) sometimes call themselves Toei Masochists, presumably due to the hard hitting nature of the films and the labored process of looking for gems..
Drinking through my fair share of Xiaguan over the last 10 years, I wonder if masochism isn’t an appropriate term for us tea drinkers that can’t quite quit the crane. Xiaguan fans in the west lovingly call themselves the Crane Gang after the famous crane logo that Xiaguan uses. Even though I’ve drank a lot of the stuff I am still filled with mixed feelings about Xiaguan. Sure I’ve had some good enough teas from them, but I’ve also endured a good deal of crane-induced punishment. Maybe I should be more aptly referred to as a Xiaguan Masochist. After all even in 2024, one of my first ideas for a tea of the month report was yet another Xiaguan report. And as a glutton for punishment here are several thousand words (the longest report yet).
One of my goals after my daughter displaced my tea room has been taking stock of what I do have, get organized, and clean out unwanted samples and cakes. I’ve drank through Xiaguan in three previous tea of the month reports in 2015 to 2017 with mixed results. In the initial report I took a photo of the crane on my toilet and compared it with their logo, summing up the lackluster teas.
In the process of clearing out cakes, Xiaguan also probably represents the most evicted tea brand of 2024/25. It’s an easy brand to accumulate due to their appealing prices and 100 gram tuos.
Here are approximately 40 reviews of Xiaguan or Xiaguan related teas all in one place (a full year of inbetweenisodes).
In the 2016 report, I mentioned a few rules for making calculated gambles that still apply. These were largely implemented after the toilet bowl Xiaguan drinkfest.
Buy sufficiently old. I used to think 10 years was enough, but now I think 15 years and ideally 20. 15 year old Xiaguan really isn’t very expensive and an extra 5 years of storage will significantly hepl the tea.
Select humidly stored tea from: southern China, Taiwan, Malaysia. If you follow (1) and (2) properly, there won’t be an overwhelming amount of smoke in the teas.
Travel well-trodden paths and don’t cheap out. There’s a lot of teas and batches. Your rate of success will be much higher if you use other’s recommendations rather than selecting randomly. Spending up is usually good. $80 vs $60 isn’t that big a difference in the end. My batting average got much better when I started corresponding with Toby, who is a true Xiaguan man and had lots of recommendations. Thanks sir!
I also have a very loose calculation scale, which I use to estimate ~biological age of teas. It’s not hyper accurate on a case by case basis, but I find it useful to estimate how far along a tea has been without the need for subjective judgements.
Formula: AGE SCORE = 2x(years of aging in humid place) + 1x(years of aging in non-humid place)
The formula implies that two years in a more humid place like Taiwan or Guangdong is worth 2 years in Kunming or Seattle. Is this accurate? In some cases maybe, in others maybe not – but I’m using it as a quick approximation to compare biological maturation. I would guess that these teas probably need about 35 in terms of an age score to start to become drinkable for my tastes. I used AGE SCORE to filter out a couple dozen teas that I have around to make life easier on myself.
Goals:
Stash check and updating the review archives! Determine how Xiaguan is doing in my storage. As I’ve gotten back into a tea rhythm, I’ve been surprised how useful old TeaDB content on teas has been for myself. The videos can be useful, but the reports in particular are interesting as time capsules and to see my own history with these teas.
Establish an average Xiaguan to benchmark against. And an average factory tea.
Composting things and giving them away when appropriate.
Finish off whatever else I have laying around.
A couple teas I did not get around to including (a) a few pre-reform teas I ordered from Shunfeng that did not arrive in time. (b) what has been described as the 2011 Xiaguan Budget Bangers.. Xiaguan Jinse Yinxiang, 2011 Xiaguan Jinse Chuanqi, 2011 Xiaguan Huangjin Yun, and 2011 Xiaguan 8113 Spring Bulang.
These Teas Require Good Storage
Xiaguan is a tea that needs good storage and time. I am judging the tea I am having under its current conditions, not the tea production overall. The storage conditions play very heavily into my own enjoyment and ultimately rating of these teas. For instance I ended up preferring the 2005 T8653 January Thick Paper from southern China over the 2003 T8653 presumably stored in Taiwan. It’s very possible that the 2003 has better material, but its still abrasive, leading me to prefer the 2005. The 2005 XG FT8653-5 vs. 2006 XG TFT8653-6 is another case where the 9 years of storage in Seattle for the FT5 haven’t done it any favors. Given a storage reversal, I may end up preferring the opposite tea. So why not judge the base material of the tea? Frankly, it’s too much mental gymnastics and I’d rather judge what is in my cup and use the presumed storage history to add a small amount of context rather than apply some theoretical base material ranking. Adding to the storage confusion, even though Xiaguan is best stored in a hot and humid climate it is still possible to be too wet. There are a few teas this report that have had their potential muted by over-storage.
This is a category of tea where most of the teas I’ve acquired have been from the mainland and not Taiwan or Malaysia. A huge chunk were purchased through MX Tea, a taobao XG specialist, whose storage generally agrees with me. Selecting storage is also a big reason to use stores like TWL that curate their teas heavily. This will prevent potential errors like storage and batches even if the price you pay is a bit higher your batting average with these teas will also be pretty good.
The Teas
A quick note on ratings… I’ve tried to update my system to allow a bit more of a spectrum rather than grouping up everything together. So the rating update will not line up 100% with past ratings.
12/23/24 Schedule…. Tuos: The Day of the Crane
If there’s anything that typifies my feelings as a Xiaguan Masochist, it was a morning designed and dedicated to drinking through a pile of tuos. Why spend a torturous week drinking one a day when you can power through a bunch at once!? I ended up successfully getting through 8 and I feel pretty good about my judgements despite being pretty burnt out by lunchtime.. Here’s the rough schedule I had sketched out.
6:30AM Wake. Drink mediocre XG ripe pu’erh. 8AM Wife goes to work. 9AM Daughter takes nap. 9:02AM Operation Crane begins. 10:20AM Daughter wakes and dropped off at daycare. Temporary pause of Operation Crane. 10:45AM Operation Crane resumes. 11:47AM Runoff Crazy Crane Body Qi (just lots of caffeine) 12:42PM Eat pizza to restore body to equilibrium.
I used my bag of tricks to get through these… Double rinse, and being quick to dump cups once I get an assessment. This is limiting in some ways, but I do feel like I get reasonably good judgements without drinking too much caffeine.. The end result, two ended up in the give away bin. Here are the tuos in quick succession.
2004 Xiaguan Jiaji (6.4)
Pretty much all acquired from MX Tea. I didn’t feel the need to subject myself to all the Jiajis I have. The 2003, 2004, and 2005 are all pretty similar with a slight quality improvement by going back in years. I did that comparison before (see below).
Started with this as a reference tea. This is solid as far as Xiaguan goes. I don’t want to drink it that often, but it is satisfactory for a 20 year old factory tea. I wanted to start with the Jiaji to use it as a reference. It is thick, dense, and woody. Little sweetness. A bit of retired smoke. Sturdy little thing.
2004 Xiaguan FT T004 (4.8)
I bought a few sleeves of this from MX on a 11/11 deal in 2018. Supposedly an acclaimed tuo. I hadn’t had this in years and was hoping it’d be ready to drink. Unfortunately it’s not that great right now.. Sad, slow Seattle storage hasn’t moved it much. It does have a couple nice things going for it: the texture and smoothness. Although it has some density, it is thinner than the Jiaji from the same year. Both teas have an age score of 35, but this tastes relatively greener than the Jiaji. I suspect this has had lighter storage despite both coming from MX. Sometimes 20 years isn’t enough.. Back into storage..
2004 Xiaguan Canger FT (5.4)
This is much fruitier than the other tuos and is probably at about a 1:1 fruit to wood ratio. Depending on how you brew it, it can be somewhat sweet or quite astringent. It has a cohesive but simple profile. It doesn’t really hit my spots, but it’s alright if you like this profile (fruit forward). I’d give this away, but I think it’s OK as a reference since it’s quite different from the Jiaji.
2004 Xiaguan Songhe (3.2)
One of the least impressive teas of this run. Very thin, astringent and just really not much there. EVICTED!
I had assumed this was MX but found out later this was Kunming stored, makes sense..
2006 Xiaguan Purple Box Fangcha FT (5.5)
Muscatel and wood nose. Higher notes and more refined than the burly Jiaji in general. Body is a bit tangy but mixes in sweetness, wood and a bit of fruit (although not as much as the Canger). This is OK, but if it doesn’t meet my standards and I have enough similar stuff that I don’t really want it around. EVICTED!
This tea was one of the better teas in the original Xiaguan report. Sad!
2006 Xiaguan Gold Ribbon FT (6.6)
This was a Toby rec and I’ve always liked these mid 2000s gold box productions. They feel like an attempt at a slightly fancier product that doesn’t require the heavier storage hand others do. Interesting to have this back to back with the Purple Box. They both have a similar muscatel-wood profile. The Jinsi (Gold Ribbon), however, is more enjoyable. Nice silky texture, smoother, and good balance of sweetness. The density is still nice and it feels more substantial than the Purple Box. This is not an amazing tea, but is one of the highest rated tuo of the report. It’s good and solid provided expectations aren’t too high. I think the Nanzhao fits into this same niche, but even one more step in the refined direction.
2008 Xiaguan Xizi FT (5.7)
This is higher noted with more florals and brown sugar. Probably a byproduct of not having undergone as much southern Chinese storage. Similar to other FT products it is a bit sweeter with a bit of retired smoke. It’s OK.
2005 Xiaguan Yincang (6.4)
After all those tuos, I was in the mood to evict this but it ended up winning me over. Wood, resin, nice texture. Maybe the tea most similar to the Jiaji, in the sense that it leans heavily towards a woody and not particularly sweet profile. There’s decent density here too. The main reason to go for the Jiaji over this is the fact that it is such a standard reference.
After enduring all eight of these in a single morning, I felt about as alert and sickened as I would if a tatted up yakuza were shouting at me.
Other Tuos
2010 Xiaguan DX Tuo (5.2)
Recommended to me by Toby. This has an annoyingly bulky box that makes the Jiaji box look reasonable (sleeves are the best).
Definitely somewhat different from a standard Xiaguan tuo. Maybe a second cousin from out of town. The age score is a lot lower (25) than anything else this month and it really does show. It has two standout features that set it apart, (a) a more refined silk texture and (b) decent mouth coating sweetness. It is intriguing, but too green to drink now. Also on the downside it’s body isn’t as dense or as substantial as other Xiaguans that rank higher in this report which is a bit concerning long term. Scott sells a 2010 brick from DX that might be interesting as an easier purchasing channel.
2004 Xiaguan FT Nanzhao (6.7)
A last minute addition picked up from LP’s January releases. I’d always had this one on my radar as it’s a well known tea and while you can technically get it cheaper on Taobao, I was also curious about the Malaysian storage. This production specifically (2004) may or may not have Banzhang material in it. My previous notes with it a decade ago had it as a tea of note, coming across as a highly atypical Xiaguan. This is the first year of this special production which makes it more sought after. First year productions are also sometimes a bit better than the same product a few years later.
Redrinking it 10 years later my notes line up closely. Even more than the XG gold ribbon the Nanzhao really doesn’t taste like normal Xiaguan or for that matter Banzhang. It does however have some nice throatiness, texture, and a good aftertaste. It is lightly oily, not particularly dense, leaning more towards a refined profile. Taste profile is antique wood, herbal with some light raisin sweeetness. This is one of the nicer tuos of the month, but it just doesn’t really feel as dense and packed like more standard Crane Brand. Firmly represents the softer side of Xiaguan.
2011 Xiaguan FT Nanzhao (5.6)
Sent by Emilio at The Jade Leaf as a sample, conveniently making this a nice comparison. Like the 2004, the 2011 has a softer profile and is much more drinkable than you’d think given its relative youth. They both feel like cousins to the Gold Ribbon Tuos. Nice sweetness, texture, smoke in a pleasant way. Mostly woody with a touch of fruit. Lacks the density and strength you’d expect from a more typical Xiaguan, but this is cheap and cheerful if you want something inexpensive and softer than 90% of Xiaguan teas.
2003 Xiaguan FT 7623 (5.5)
This one was from Chawangshop back in the day. It’s ultimately very baseline. Starts out with a bit of fruit to accompany the standard wood Xiaguan taste. It is not bad but if I haven’t drank it in the 10 years of having it and does not show anything intriguing in this session that would change that. It’s just not interesting enough to keep around. Evicted!
2003 Xiaguan Jiaji (5.8) via SF
Tried blind from Phobos after another blind sample. Thanks! Very woody. Has undergone some lightish traditional storage or gotten a bit wet. The tuo is very woody, and creamy, a bit milky. It’s not bad, but I don’t find it to be very satisfying. Having this after the superior 2003 Xiaguan 8653 does the tea no favors.
I was somewhat surprised as the tea does not resemble the 2003 XG Jiaji I have from MX at all. The tea could’ve masqueraded as even older and it would not have shocked me. Storage for Xiaguan can be too light, but also overdone as is the case here. Storage is king!
2002 Xiaguan Teji (6.0)
This one is not from MX, but from a Shenzhen vendor that kept his tea on the dry-side of things. Unfortunately this is a tea that could’ve used more of a push and similar to the T004 is a disappointment despite its age score being relatively high (42). It crosses me as a classical wood, retired smoke, lightly sweet Xiaguan that was stored dry and isn’t as juicy or as substantial as you would hope for a 23 year old tuo. It is a similar level to the Jiaji but I enjoy it less, likely due to the storage. This one will go back into storage.
FT Tuos – sweeter, softer, a bit more texture, a little better?
Having all these teas in a short succession has some definite advantages and disadvantages. One disadvantage is it’s a pretty unenjoyable way to drink and appreciate tea. Teas I enjoy like the Gold Ribbon or even the Jiaji were used as more of a measuring stick rather than something to appreciate and enjoy.
One advantage is that you can more clearly see possible patterns. FT seems to have a reputation for being a bit less brash than vanilla XG. In the tuos I found FT were on average more textured, a bit sweeter, slightly softer, with improved longevity. I’d probably describe them as a little better, but it depends a lot on the individual production and year. I also wouldn’t make any hard rules like always buy FT or never buy regular XG products.
Note: I wouldn’t describe the difference in XG vs. XG FT cakes the same way, although (IMO) the FT Pink #4’s most notable attribute is its texture.
Cakes
2013 Xiaguan FT Love Forever Paper Tong (7.1)
Really a XINO (Xiaguan in name only). For those unfamiliar with the alleged origin story… The tea is made of aged maocha that was supposedly leftover from famous Dayi productions (Jin Dayi) in 2003. Sure! Whatever you say FT..
It is hard to know what to believe but the profile is far more Menghai-ish and aged than a typical 2013 production. The tea used to be quite burly and bitter, but turned the corner shortly after I got gifted a tong for my wedding in 2017. The tea is very tasty now with a fruit-wood profile. Good thickness and while it can certainly get bitter its sharper edges have softened a lot. Others have noted a cherry like note to this, and while I wouldn’t quite describe it that way it has some brightness to it that vaguely resembles a cherry note. This has also always been a cake that people complain about inconsistencies, but since I’m experienced with the material (I’ve finished a cake) I’ve learned to lean in or out of the tea and don’t really get bad sessions with it.
One small tip on this one: don’t be stingy and brew up lots of dust. This is probably good advice in general, but especially true for something that is punchy and sensitive to a heavy hand like LFPT.
2009 Xiaguan DX 7223 (6.5)
Picked one up from MX at the end of last year on a whim. Like Love Forever this uses aged maocha and is a special production, made by Dehexin who supposedly had their hand in the Double Lions along with the Malaysian teahouse. This is a Bulang blend from 2005-2007 and the less expensive production they made this year. The more costly production allegedly has Banzhang.
The tea is overall pretty good, but not as big a hit as I had hoped. Certainly not a home run or even a double.. Maybe a single. It has a nice fruit sweetness that coats the throat. A bit woody. Mostly it is not as big as I hoped, feeling a bit narrow and not too much Bulang bitter. Some retired smoke. Still a bit resinous and has some room to improve. Overall I prefer the stronger Xiaguan LFPT, but I could easily see an alternate universe where this tea garners a similar level of popularity to LFPT. Not a bad one to seek out if a relatively affordable ($50ish) aged Bulang blend sounds appealing.
2006 Xiaguan FT Pink #4 (6.2)
Recommended to me by Toby ages ago. I was surprised by this one as it was better than my memory. Nice aroma and this tea hints at smoke more than other teas in this report. Woody, reasonably thick, and some residual sweetness. I do think the ceiling is limited for such teas. It is mostly just decent and expectations have to be tempered. But it has solid density and the texture does stand out. You can still track this one down easily for a pretty reasonable price. Compared to my previous notes it is considerably improved. I pulled my cake into rotation where we’ll see how it does on the speed test.
2004 Xiaguan FT 8653-3+1 (7.4)
Turned onto this by Toby and Emilio of The Jade Leaf in 2017/2018? I had the TW stored version which I believe Emilio sells. This is an interesting tea.. It is extremely pungent, resinous, oily, menthol-heavy and woody. It also feels substantial with good strength and density. After a challenging Christmas Day, this tea was particularly satisfying. I think this tea is worth checking out even if you’ve had the conventional T8653. I quite enjoy it and it crosses me as significantly different from the 2005 T8653 Thick Paper or the 2003 T8653 which are much more similar to one another. I do think the FT8653-3+1 is very likely to be polarizing due to its very pungent characteristics. This is one that isn’t talked about that much, but perhaps should be.
I did manage to re-try this before the end of the report and indeed still like it, even as it wasn’t as pungent and intense as my Christmas Day session. The notes aren’t that different from normal Xiaguan 8653, but it presents very differently in ways that are obvious if you have them side by side.
I unexpectedly had the opportunity to pickup a few cakes of this for an attractive 2000NTD, so did end up buying 3 more cakes. Thanks Quiche!
2005 Xiaguan FT 8653-5 (6.6)
Bought a cake from MX back in 2015. This is decent and serviceable and basically a more palatable version of the 2004. Unfortunately it does suffer a bit in comparison with the 3+1 and falls on the wrong side of boring at times. The base flavor profile is the same: menthol, wood, some oiliness but it does not feel as substantial. It is unclear to me how much is the original material vs. the storage, the experience it offers is a significant step down from the 3+1. Consumed against the thick paper later and it holds up reasonably well. The thickness and oiliness is impressive but it is also a bit hollow in comparison with the standard Iron Thick January.
2006 Xiaguan FT T8653-6 (6.8)
Perhaps due to being an iron cake, this is a bit different than the 2004 and 2005 FT I have. Some smoke that seems like it is on the way out. I think the extra time in a humid climate (the 2005 FT has been in Seattle for nearly a decade) has benefited it. Profile is a mix of wood, pine, menthol which sounds similar to normal T8653, but does present itself a bit different than standard Xiaguan. Consistent with some of the other FT products it has a pleasing, refined texture. Still powdery and can use more time but definitely heading in the right direction. Not as satisfying as the 2004 FT 8653, but more than the 2005.
2003 Xiaguan Xiaofei 8653 (7.2) SF
Blind from Phobos. Smells like 8653, menthol wood, oily, mouthcooling. Herbal, nice texture, a bit of depth to the back of the mouth. After having this revealed, it’s nice to know that non iron 8653 can follow a similar cake trajectory as iron cake 8653 provided it has the right storage.
This is pretty close to my ideal storage for Xiaguan. Interestingly it comes from Shunfeng who is all over the map on storage, some too wet and others like this pretty good.
2006 Xiaguan XY BGT (6.3)
From a part of a blind sampling a few years ago. Made by XY.
This is technically a decent tea just generic and boring (to me). It is also very un-Xiaguan like. It has decent thickness, plum sweetness, wood. It’s fine and has nice clarity with its profile just pretty dull. I’ve had the 2012 and had similar feelings.
2001 Xiaguan XY 8853 (7)
Stored by a Shenzhen dealer who keeps his teas drier (same as Teji). Also made by XY.
Similar to the 2006 Xiaguan BGT, this has a very clear profile that is a bit different than XG. It is also technically a decent tea, but I find it dull for its pricepoint. Rather than the classic wood-pine-methol, this is far more wood dominant. It is oily but a lot less than a T8653. Also a bit more retired smoke than those teas. Good mouth sweetness and thickness.
I’ve heard there’s a few versions of the 2001 8853, so that could perhaps account for some of the difference here.
2001 Xiaguan XY Green Chawang (7.4)
These two Chawangs were generously supplied by Emmett, thank you! They both have the Yang storage, but neither one really tastes like his warehouse.
The storage has moved this to a much better place than the 8853. Ye Binghuai (the maker) says this is an Yiwu and while I don’t have a firm opinion, I do not find that completely unbelievable. Although the processing is obviously far more in a factory style, the tea reaches deeper and has a stronger throat feel than almost all the other Xiaguans in this report. Soft, woody, silky texture. It is not an overly complex tea but it is a satisfying one with a good lingering sweetness.. I finish the session feeling quite nice.
2001 Xiaguan XY Yellow Chawang (7.4)
Also from the Yang warehouse. Thanks Emmett! This is roughly the same caliber tea as the Green with a few differences (keeping in mind I’m judging from just a couple sessions).
It feels like it is also turning the corner, and is perhaps a few years behind the Green. It has a greener fragrance, more resin and retired smoke. The tea is also a bit more flavor-forward with wood, muscatel sweetness, and a light tang. Texture is a bit more syrup rather than silk. Overall, I’d say this is more complex with an interesting mouthfeel and a bit more active than the Green but with less depth and throat feel. I liked my session with the Green more but this is also a satisfying tea.
2001 Green Sun (7.4)
Not a Xiaguan, but made by Ye Binghuai as well. And also supposedly an Yiwu.. Also from Yang’s storage (thanks again Emmett). Very different than the Xiaguan productions he made of the same year and feels more like a predecessor to the Yiwu cakes that would come. Pleasant, soft, sweet, potpourri, resin, wood. More “Yiwuish” than the Xiaguans. Has a nice throat sweetness.. I am a sucker for these teas, even if this has relatively short longevity.
Iron Cakes (non FT)
2005 Xiaguan T8653 Thick Paper January (7.2)
Bought four of these in 2021 from MX with no regrets. It’s one of my reference cakes and I’ve drank quite a bit of a cake. The profile is a familiar one if you’ve drank any Xiaguan iron cake 8653 from this period. Oily, thick, menthol, heavy wood and pine profile. No smoke. Longevity is just OK but it is very satisfying. In this case, the batch is clearly good and the storage helps to complete the tea (MX is a Xiaguan specialist). Very nice all around and easily passes the speed test.
For those that are curious about the thin version or non Iron I’ve recorded a video on the Thick vs. Thin vs. a non-Iron. I’d heartily recommend a well-stored thick paper version (January/February/March).
2005 Xiaguan Grade A Iron Cake February (6.8)
I bought this back in 2020 for reasons I no longer remember. Someone said it was sort of like 8653 and MX didn’t have any at the time? This is the first batch and while it doesn’t quite live up to the T8653 it is good and enjoyable. Oily, menthol, wood. Resinous.. Just a little thin compared to the iron cake, but overall satisfying. Decent aftertaste.
2004 Xiaguan? 8653?? Iron from Malaysia (6.9)
This was picked up by a local tea buddy on his trip back home to Malaysia. Thanks Meng! Meng, Garrett, and I split four cakes three ways as a fun way to sample some of the local offerings. It was supposedly T8653 like or going for something similar. They were mostly around $50-60 and all were good for the money. This ended up being my favorite of the batch. I was curious to see how this tea would match up with all the other iron cakes being consumed.
It stacks up pretty well! It is thick and very oily, with the familiar heavy pine/wood/resin. It is very believably Xiaguan like. Doesn’t brew out forever but it has a likable 8653-ish profile. Even my wife who normally does not enjoy non-trad sheng, didn’t mind a couple cups I gave her.
2003 Xiaguan T8653 (6.6)
From a sample a couple years ago. Xiaguan is one type of tea where I don’t own many TW-stored stuff. This was an interesting session, partly because it was (surprisingly to me) a bit less satisfying than the MX Xiaguans. In this era, you’d expect earlier productions to be a bit better, so this ran counter to my own expectations.
I think it boils down to storage. In the case of the others, they were stored in Malaysia (2004 XG Iron) or by MX (a XG specialist in Guangdong). This tea while not poorly stored has not yet ironed out the more rough acrid edges that make it an inferior experience, despite what is possibly superior material.
A bit tart, acrid, and bitter. Gets very oily with a nice mouthcoat. Familiar wood, menthol. Hints at more retired smoke than other iron cakes. Above average longevity.
2001 Xiaguan T8653 Da Hongfei (6)
This is a Kunming stored Da Hongfei version from Yunnan Sourcing. Supposedly the Heifei has more potent material. Info on the different 2001 versions (Thanks Phobos).
This is quite slow to get going, and does start out smoother than one might expect. It does eventually get heavier, very resinous with some bitterness. While it isn’t particularly thick this is quite green. Storage is king when it comes to Xiaguan. It hints but doesn’t quite get to the menthol, wood note that the wetter stored teas have. You can get a thicker brew, but are hit with a potent bitterness.
1999 Xiaguan T8653 (7) Shenzhen Vendor
From the Shenzhen vendor who keeps his teas dry. This is both one of the better teas of the month and also a disappointment.
On its own it is an enjoyable enough brew, but I do not find this meaningfully more enjoyable compared with the 2005 T8653. It gets very oily and extremely woody. Curiously missing the menthol note, but otherwise fits into the nice pine wood profile. Overall pretty simple and I think it’d be pretty satisfying if I could set my expectations more appropriately. Similar to the 2001, I’m left wondering what an MX stored version of this would be like.
1999 Xiaguan T8653 (7) Shunfeng
From Shunfeng on Taobao. Same rating as the one from Shenzhen, but very different drinks.
While the Shenzhen vendor keeps his teas drier than my preferences, this one unfortunately swings too far the other way. This seems to have gotten some traditional storage early on and has aged beyond that menthol, wood phase. It still resembles a Xiaguan cake and it certainly isn’t Yee On level of traditional storage, but the storage is not ideal. It is a pleasing easy drinker, oily, woody, and in the end quite a simple tea. Slightly younger 8653 give a hint at what might’ve been. Interestingly, neither 1999 T8653 had that cooling menthol note that I get in the 2000s XG Iron Cakes. Until I try a more ideally stored one I will chalk that up to storage.
Iron Cakes > Tuos
After all the tuos these iron cakes were a refreshing change and on average much better than the tuos. I am noting to myself that iron cakes stored in popular hot and humid hotspots are starting to get into a very nice place at around 20 years.
Brewing these is a bit different than normal caked pu’erh. I used a gaiwan, which I found effective because of the fuller feedback you get. You can easily see the liquor color and leaves unfurling very easily. This allows you to modulate the brews more easily than in a pot. In my case, I believe it outweighed the positive of extra heat retention and allowed me to brew more evenly. I also got into a good rhythm with them as I brewed them relatively regularly for this report.
For Comparison’s Sake
One thing I like to do towards the end of these themed drinkings is brew something that would make a good comparison. In this case, big factory raw from the mid 2000s from other factories, Dayi and Mengku Rongshi.
2006 Dayi 8582 (7.2)
This is probably my favorite Dayi recipe, and I’ve always found it does better on the speed test than 7542. Nice big, broad body, woody, coats the mouth in sweetness. This one is ready to be consumed: thick, reasonably smooth, with a pleasing texture. Similar to the 2005 T8653, very satisfying and refreshing after mediocre Xiaguan. This beats most of the teas from this month. Sorry Crane Gang, but Big Benefits > Shimonseki.
2004 Mengku Rongshi Qizibing (7)
Similar to the 8582, this one fits as a comparison point. An aged factory production from the mid 2000s. It was also probably one of the best value buys I ever did, costing something like $25. In some ways I prefer it to the more esteemed YYX from an earlier year. This has the added benefit of being northern as well.
The tea is nothing crazy, but a solid workhouse. A clear profile that isn’t very dynamic but simple and enjoyable. It’s the sort of tea you drink a bunch when you’re more settled in your taste, provided you like the profile. This easily passes the speed test in my case. Wood, coco, mid-level thickness. Brews out for a while with a generally warming and not cold profile. Compared to Xiaguan teas in this report, it is very different. Basically goes for very different profiles with none of that menthol, pine, wood, resin activity that dominates the 8653 and other XGs. Interesting to try but not especially informative in this context.
2000 Mengtong Jiaji (6.4)
An off-brand tuo sold by YS. It’s decent and drinkable. Relatively on par with Jiaji. It has ideal storage that has moved the tea along but not too wet. Lots of retired smoke that hints heavily at a previous life as a smoke heavy tea. Otherwise, woody, burly, with some sweetness.
Trad. Stored & Old Ripes
These don’t really fit with the other teas but are fun easy drinkers made by Xiaguan.
2001 Xiaguan Pine Crane Jiaji Tuo (8)
Sold and stored by Yee On.
A pretty ideal traditionally stored tea. Oily, rich, wood. Has a heavy earthy, beetroot sweetness. A bit of syrup texture. Makes me wish there were more well done traditional stored XG available. You could add a bunch of notes that are synonyms to earth, but it’s mostly just a richer, nicer traditionally stored pu’erh.
1994 Xiaguan Tuo Ripe (7.5)
Another one sold by Yee On.
This is not a complex tea, but a simple profile that is very satisfying. Rich, creamy, ginseng, beetroot. Fairly thick and lightly sweet. For me this is chuggable tea. If you are someone that thinks they just like raw and have avoided traditionally stored ripe, please consider trying some of this and the cheaper Yee offerings.
1990s Xiaguan Brick (6.6), friend
Picked up by a tea friend in the last couple years. Fairly low grade material (as one would expect), and possibly traditionally stored early on. It is an easy to drink, smooth brew. It has a nice silk texture. Nothing crazy but an interesting time capsule towards the humble tea blue-collar big factories were cranking out in the 1990s.
1990s Xiaguan Brick (6.7), Houde
A sample bought from Houde. This is more or less as expected. Solid, medium-thick, wood, hints of dates (feels like a cousin of 7581). One reason I like traditionally stored ripe is it adds an interesting herbal+ginseng element to it. This is a perfectly functional drinker that while solid is also kind of dull. I do think teas of this caliber will depend a lot on the individual preferences. There is certainly some enjoyable characteristics. It is a tea that knows what it is and offers a clear, defined profile. I rank this a slight bit higher than the other brick as the base material crosses me as a bit better and it offers a thicker, denser brew.
VOATO: What is the Average Factory Tea? What is the Average Xiaguan?
One of the goals here was establishing the ATO (Average Tea Owned) in this category (Xiaguan). The average is probably the 2004/05 Jiaji, a relatively ordinary tea that can still be bought for under $0.20/g. If single tuos or cakes are worse than that, they should probably be removed unless they can bring something else to the table. The 2005 T8653 January Thick Paper is better than the average but is probably the better benchmark particularly for the cakes.
If I were to extrapolate this out to factory tea I own, I think the Jiaji would fall a little below average.
These Teas are Inexpensive
Many of these teas have not appreciated that much in price. The tuos in particular are good budget buys provided you like their profile. On the day of the crane, those 40 grams of ~20 year old tea probably set me back something like $3. Hard to beat.
The cakes and iron cakes are a bit more, and probably also where most people should start as the quality is on average higher. The January Thick Paper can be acquired for very reasonable $/g prices, the challenge is finding good storage. The TWL is pricier than other sources, but they do a good job vetting so it’s one I’d likely recommend if you don’t want to shop around too much.
For Your Consideration: $15 2004 Jiaji vs. $10 2005 Jiaji
Consider this case. The $15 2004 Jiaji and the $10 2005 Jiaji.. These teas sold for approximately these price from MX not long ago. They have a similar profile but the 2004 clearly has better material if you side by side them. The 2004 cost $5 or 50% more. Is the tea 50% better? Definitely not.. Perhaps 15-20%? But the $5 additional cost is spread across several sessions. A 5g session, costs a measly $0.25 extra per session. In my opinion a worthwhile tradeoff if your budget isn’t super tight.. Consider spending up for better quality even if it isn’t value optimization.
Why Own These Teas? What is the Upside of These Teas?
I am dubious of these teas aging into anything great. Things like the 2006 Xiaguan Pink, which improved a bit, are unlikely to be anything beyond a solid daily drink.
I bought a lot of the Xiaguan as a low-risk way to get diversity into my stash inexpensively. The positive case is that some of them, especially the ones I own in some quantity, should be decent workhorse teas. And since workhorse teas are the majority of teas I drink, there is a distinct and clear purpose. That all being said, even this more positive case isn’t that exciting. All those cakes of pink do take up space that could be something else.
What do I Actually Own? & Would I Do it Again?
I own quite a bit of:
2013 FT LFPT (no regrets)
2010 XG DX Tuo (minor regrets)
2006 FT Pink #4 (minor regrets)
2006 Jinsi Gold Ribbon (no regrets)
2005 T8653 January Thick Paper (no regrets)
2004/05 Jiaji (no regrets)
2004 FT T004 (minor regrets)
If I were to do this over I’d buy more 2005 Thick paper and avoid the T004 and Pink. I’d probably also get some 2004 Xiaguan FT8653-3+1. The T004 and Pink aren’t huge mistakes as they’re OK and inexpensive. The main thing they take up is space. Their price also hasn’t gone up much, so I would’ve been better off buying them after they’d gotten a few more years of superior storage. I’m still curious to see where they’ll go even if I would not buy them again. The DX Tuo is kind of annoying due to its huge box size but it’s still too young to decide if it’s a dud, although I probably should’ve waited 5-10 years before buying that too.
Storage matters a lot and makes a big impact on your cup. I cannot give these teas accelerated aging, so buying something that is already in a decent place is important. It makes sense to be very particular and fussy about storage in the same way that we are with boutique tea. If you have a hotbox or are in SE Asia, the calculation might be different. But for those of us with an unheated pumidor I think its a good reminder to be very choosy about the storage on teas we buy for later.
Recommendations
Buy these teas:
2005 Xiaguan Thick Paper Jan/Feb T8653 (Stored Somewhere Hot+Humid)
2004/05 Xiaguan Jiaji Tuo (Stored Somewhere Hot+Humid)
2004/06 Xiaguan Gold Ribbon Tuo or 2004/2005 Xiaguan Nanzhao Tuo (Stored Somewhere Hot+Humid)
Why the T8653? A good version represents the appeal of the Xiaguan very well. I am very happy with the cakes I own. There are of course other Xiaguan recipes but I’ve been relatively unenthusiastic about my experience with the 8613 and 8673 (episodes are out for both). The Jiaji iron is decent enough, but I think the January Iron 8653 is the better bet.
As for the Jiaji tuo. There are other tuos I prefer to this, and I like it significantly less than the iron cake but its decent and representative of a certain Xiaguan profile. The profile is also pretty different from the T8653. MX still has this in stock as of early 2025.
The Gold Ribbon and Nanzhao occupy the softer, more approachable Xiaguan niche, something that hasn’t been well covered in the west but should be. Both are nice blends, smoother, and less abrasive. I recommend everyone check them out as they are ready to drink much sooner than conventional Xiaguan.
If you want to try more:
2004 Xiaguan FT8653-3+1 – Unique character that sounds similar but is different from the standard T8653.
2013 Xiaguan Love Forever Paper Tong – Highly atypical XG with some inconsistencies, but a decent Menghai-ish blend. I would not spend over $100 on this personally, but if you can get it for the right price.
Back to Their Cheap & Cheerful Qualities… Xiaguan Budget Propaganda
There’s a lot of tea besides Xiaguan. Heck there’s a lot of northern tea that hardly ever gets talked about or sold to the west, like Baichatang. But.. If you were stuck in Xiaguan jail with $ per day to spend ~$365 and you drink 10 grams a day, what would you buy?
Here’s one proposal. Disregarding shipping.
$120ish – 357 grams 1x 2004 T8653-3+1
$100ish- 357 grams 1x 2005 T8653 Thick Paper
$39 – 600 grams 6x 2007 Gold Ribbon (48RMB for 1 on SF)
$68 – 1000 grams 10x 2005 Jiaji (248RMB for 5 on MX)
$30 – 1428 grams 4x 2019 T8633 Ripe (55RMB on MX)
$357 – 3,742 grams.
And there you have two pretty good Xiaguans and a lot of daily drinking teas that are 18-20 years of age. The rest is filled in with a decent amount of ripe filler from a reliable Xiaguan recipe. I would not be excited about drinking this for a full year, but that’s not bad for a modest budget and a decent tea appetite of 10 grams a day.
Will I Buy More?
My buying has slowed down and I tend to only buy multiple cakes of things a few times a year. I also do not care about value like I used to, so the inexpensive nature of these cakes has more limited appeal than it did to me in 2016. That being said I am still likely to acquire two teas in the future. More T8653 (likely from 2005 or earlier) and the FT8653-3+1 (which I have since acquired). Despite both carrying the 8653 banner and being just a year apart they offer different experiences. The T8653 2005 January is a solid tea and a good reference point. I own 5 cakes already, but I think this is one I can drink for a long time. There are a number of similarish cakes to this here, but this production does standout for its quality and price.
As for the FT 8653-3+1 when I made an instagram post on it, Emilio of the The Jade Leaf commented that the pungency of this tea was compared to the phermones emitted by mature women in a popular Taiwanese blog. A suitable description to a highlight tea in the Xiaguan Masochist report.
I’ve stored tea for around six years now in Seattle and while I’ve fussed a bit over a few small things, the methodology has been overall consistent. The pu’erh has been stored in an enclosed container with Boveda packs to ramp up the humidity to around 65RH. Airflow is low. Most people would call this a pumidor. Every year I look at my spreadsheet and decide on pulling a few teas to retry.
The most interesting storage experiment in the west is a heated cooler filled with mylar bags of pu’erh in Toronto. This is of course Marco’s hotbox experiment where cakes are conditioned to generate 63-69RH and then stored at fixed temperatures. I was lucky enough to get two five gram samples of tea from Marco that were stored in the box for two years. One was stored at both 23C (~73-74F) and the other at 32C (~89-90F) sent by Marco.
Thanks to Nug, I had the opportunity to sample a few older and thereby quite expensive Menghai TF teas. I no longer sample as often as I used to, and try to be focused on very interesting teas when I do. These teas were sold to us by Taizhong based vendor Wang JF who will sell samples of some of his more expensive teas. The teas were naturally stored in Taiwan, and while I do suspect there were some differences in the storage of these teas early on, I think they all fit easily into the TW-natural storage category.
This is an extremely overdue tea drinking report. It was conceived for two reasons. (1) I recently reconfigured my storage into a larger setup. (2) I have a yearly tradition of picking some teas out of deep storage to retry and note their progression (or lack thereof). The latter allows me to get a better feel for my storage and pick out anything going wrong with the teas. This year I picked eight teas from my own storage as well as a couple extras from tea friends, all of which have been stored for a significant chunk of their lifespan in Washington state.(more…)
I picked up this tea from a vendor in Taiwan in 2017. Generally speaking, I lean skeptical of age and even moreso extreme claims of this extent. But I spent considerable time with this vendor and trust them more than most. Call me a chump, but I mainly believe it in this case. Finding tea this old is not common and I wanted to document the experience since I have not encountered many oolongs that I reliably consider this old and doubt I ever will.
About this Tea
This tea was picked in Pinglin which isn’t too far outside of Taipei and was one of the primary growing regions in Taiwan during that period. Like other teas, the processing of Baozhong has changed substantially over the years. I had the opportunity to try a (young) Baozhong produced in an older style when Origin Tea was still in business and it fit firmly into the category of a darker, roasted oolong. Today, the tea is typically processed very green and is usually considered one of the greenest oolongs on the market.(more…)
In our small little westerm tea community, there was quite a stir over YQH in 2015 and 2016. I’ll personally admit to being caught up in both the dialog and purchasing of these teas. YQH remains available via Emmett, the most important figure in making these teas accessible). And while YQH as a conversation piece in the tea community has faded, I thought I’d share some thoughts on YQH, looking back with some perspective.(more…)
It wouldn’t be without the generosity of experienced tea hands that I’d be able to do posts like these. A sample was provided by Peter from a cake from Su’s collcetion. Thank you to both of you!
About the Tea
This tea is not famous when put in comparison with previous teas like the 1988 QB or the 1999 Big Green Tree Black. The tea is labeled as a 7542 and is a big factory production, but is importantly not an official Menghai TF production. This makes the 7542 mean less than it would had it been a bona fida production, such as the 1988 QB. To this uneducated eye the leaves do look the part, with leaves that are neither big nor small. You may ask why I’m featuring a tea that isn’t famous.. It is a well-sourced, dry-stored, old tea. Those just don’t come around everyday and I wanted to do my best to document this tea and session.(more…)
The 1988 Qing Bing is a very famous cakes from the 1980s and early 1990s. Like the 1999 BGT I thought I would share my experiences with it. Phyll Sheng lays out the criteria for 1988 QB in this informative post.
They are Menghai Factory-produced 7542 tea cakes from 1989-1992, and
They are dry-and-naturally stored.
A sample was very generously sent as a wedding gift by Su who has stored this tea for a couple decades in Malaysia. Thanks so much for your generosity Su!(more…)
